Labor intensive winter ascent Date Climbed: Mar 2, 2013
Our climb of Leahy Peak & neighboring "Electric Pass Peak" ended up being a 16 hour epic due to very difficult conditions. The snow was often thigh, and sometimes crotch, deep on the approach from Ashcroft up the Pine Creek drainage. En route we saw several natural avalanches sparked by the sun's intense heat. We took quite a circuitous route to navigate through avalanche terrain, especially at the headwall below Cathedral Lake. The ascent took 12 hours and we summited "Electric Pass Peak" right at sunset. The descent took a mere 4 hours.
Ascended the SW Face from Cathedral Lake with Floyd and Cheeseburglar. This face was pretty dry but there were lots of snow patches in the willows near the lake that were a bit annoying. Climbed Malemute and Electric Pass Peak as well before dropping to to the American Lake side for a loop hike with car shuttle.
"After the first glass, you see things as you wish they were. After the second, you see things as they are not. Finally, you see things as they really are, which is the most horrible thing in the world."
--Oscar Wilde on Absinthe