Leavenworth Area Climbs Climber's Log
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|jacobsmith||Pearly Gates |
Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2013
|Climbed a couple routes with Gimpilator before the heat and the 5.9+(++) Celestial Groove shut us down. Rock quality-wise this is the best area in Leavenworth that i have been to.|
|Posted Aug 10, 2013 11:13 am|
|gimpilator||Several Trips |
Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2013
|Midway on Castle Rock|
No Room For Squares on Pearly Gates
Cloud 9 on Pearly Gates
Cell Phone Posse on Pearly Gates
|Posted Aug 6, 2013 1:29 am|
|Posted May 28, 2013 11:40 am|
Date Climbed: May 17, 2012
|8 mile- Classic Crack (5.8), Deception crack (5.9)|
Clamshell-Clamshell Crack (5.7)
Bruces Boulder-Lots of stuff, from 5.6 slab routes to face climbs to an easy corner crack
Barney's Rubble- A 5.6, can't remember if it has a name
Lots of bouldering all over the place. Best stuff seemed to be at the beach area in the Tumwater canyon, swiftwater, and Barney's Rubble. Muscle Beach, near Barney's, is an AWESOME swimming hole in late summer.
|Posted Aug 29, 2012 9:40 pm|
|Great day with Sandeep on good route. started to rain, rope snag on rap- all the good things in life to keep it real. dried off enough to play on slabs routes mid descent.|
|Posted Apr 27, 2012 12:13 am|
|My favorite place to climb in the State, beautiful scenery, good weather, and great routes|
|Posted Apr 13, 2012 4:27 pm|
|MMclimbhigh||What to do?|
|Love Leavenworth. We go as much as we can. Skiing, biking, boating, climbing......what to do today?|
|Posted Oct 24, 2011 1:05 am|
|SKI||Good Fun |
Date Climbed: Jul 16, 2011
|I'm just a little too used to Yosemite though it seems.|
|Posted Jul 18, 2011 12:23 am|
|ShredTheGnar||Tons of good routes|
|lots of great stuff!|
|Posted Jul 12, 2011 11:02 am|
|Multiple Climbs over the years since 1998, great area with lots of options to choose from.|
|Posted Aug 31, 2009 5:45 pm|
|James_W||Great Rock and Setting |
Date Climbed: Jun 4, 2007
|Spent a few days in leavenworth getting to know routes/areas, really great climbs and concentration..more bolted routes than expected. Curious how this place looks during ice season, until 2009!|
|Posted Jul 3, 2008 12:17 am|
|baloodh2000||Classic Crack |
Date Climbed: Oct 15, 2007
|Had 4 climbers with us that day. Did parts of the extreme north on the Icicle Buttress. Made our way to the 8 mile rock and climbed twin cracks and classic crack. Also climbed the rock to the west of the main rock. Not sure what the title was on that. Great under-clings and then peters out at the top. When I was on twin cracks a guy flew by me on classic crack free solo style. My struggle felt trivial after that.|
|Posted Nov 12, 2007 3:48 am|
Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2003
|Climbed here as part of my 13-day mountaineering trip with alpine ascents.|
|Posted Aug 27, 2007 9:42 pm|
|ibndalight||Roto Wall and Classic Crack |
Date Climbed: Jul 18, 2007
|We climbed Roto Wall and Classic Crack they were great climbs to work on yor jamming also climbed Angle Crack 5.10 tough crack|
|Posted Jul 24, 2007 9:37 pm|
|Sharon||Where it all started |
Date Climbed: Nov 21, 1987
|Partners: John Middleton, Joe Hahler, Ruth Martin.|
The first time I ever climbed in my life was here: Bruce's Boulder & Barney's Rubble. Done in brand-new mountain boots in the cold & rain. What a rush! The rest is history. I've returned many, many times since.
|Posted Dec 22, 2006 5:18 am|
|nasak||Route Climbed: Various|
|Leavenworth is close to home, so I've been there many times. Great camping down Icicle Road. I've climbed all around Icicle Canyon, Castle Rock, and Tumwater Canyon. There's still so much to climb there, I'll be back!|
|Posted Oct 7, 2006 7:35 am|
|I went to Icicle Creek with Linda N and one of her friends. I sent up topropes on Bruce's Boulder and Barney's Rubble so they could climb. A fun day! Next time I visit Linda (soon - I hope), I will make time to go there and climb.|
|Posted Jun 26, 2006 5:29 pm|
|rpc||Misc. Lworth Routes|
Along with Martin, Mishell, Haydar, Bruce, Amanda, Jim, Betty, Jessi, and Matt (hope I did not leave anyone out!), celebrated Martin's birfday with much beer drinking and some ;) climbing as well. Did Dogleg Crack (Shirley & Haydar's leads), Meat Grinder on Alphabet Rock (flailed on TR on Z-Cracks); and Classic Crack (Shirley's lead). Also did Heart Of Gold (??? Crag) and Poison Ivy Crack (Shirley's lead). My favorite route of the outing was probably Meat Grinder though all were excellent.
Great place. Will do more trips there in spring. Givler's Crack is one of the best crack pitches and probably THE best crack pitch of the grade we've done. Well worth the steep, rattler-infested (photo coming soon :) approach!
Got stuck behind a party of Mountaineers on our Cocaine Connection/R&D climb.....it took hours!! Fortunately the views were great as was the weather.
|Posted May 17, 2006 4:59 pm|
|Martin Cash||A Bunch of Times |
Date Climbed: May 15, 2006
Gun Rack - 5.9 - A fun 2 pitch route with a pumpy roof on the first pitch, but overall not that memorable. Not deserving of its 3 stars.
Playin' Possum - 5.10b - Cool 3 pitch route. Pitch 1 is fun and 2 is easy but 3 is really sweet. I'd give it 2 or 3 stars not 1.
Seven Seas - 5.7 - Really cool pitch with a fun handcrack at the top.
Agent Orange - 5.8 - Decent route with only 1 5.8 move near the top.
Red Tide - 5.10a - Followed Brian, stout for the grade. Really good pitch.
Heart Of Gold (5/14/06) - Fun 4 pitch 5.10A slab route on Duty Dome. Climbed it with Radek, Shirley, and Haydar. Pitches 1, 3, and 4 were very nice.
Off duty - 5.10a - Overated and overgraded, more like a 1 or 2 star 5.9.
Domestic Dome (5/21/05) - B.S. to Snag Crack - Cool climb, but heavily sandbagged. The first pitch is 5.8 slab, not 5.6. The slab below Snag crack is also 5.8. Getting into Snag Crack is 5.8, and above that is sweet handjambing goodness. Nice route.
Condorphamine Addiction (4/9/05) - Nice climb, see my trip report.
Purina Crags Area
Poison Ivy Crack - 5.9 - 6X - Great fingers to thin hands in left facing corner. The stem move at the top is fun. Very nice pitch. 2X leading, 2X following, 2X TRing.
Just Another Sucker on the Vine - 5.8 - Lead it 2X, very nice for a 5.8 pitch, more like 2 or 3 stars.
La Cucaracha - 5.10D - 2X - Hard steep off fingers to thin hands. A sweet splitter.
Pearly Gates Area
No Room For Squares - 5.8 - Fun handcrack.
Lost Souls - 5.9 - 2X - Good handcrack, the bulge is the crux.
Last Rights - 5.10A - The right angling handcrack, not bad. Easy for a 5.10A.
Loaves of Fun - 5.8 - 2X - Really nice double crack exiting up unto the slab above. Sustained. Recommended.
Milky Way - 5.10A - Amazing 2 pitch 5.10A slab! The best slab route I've been on in Leavenworth.
Tool Time - 5.9+ - Fun slab, the crux is probably mid 10, gotta love those stiff ratings!
New 5.9 slab right of the second pitch of Milky Way - Fun climb with some cool flakes.
Cloud Nine - 5.9+ - Nice 2 pitch climb. The crux on the second pitch is pretty hard.
Easy Pickens - 5.10A - The start is really hard, above that is some nice finger jambs and a cool sidepull move at the end. Good route.
Z Crack - 5.10C - 2X TRing, freed the entry move the second time. Nice pitch.
Dogleg Crack - 5.8+ - 5X leading and TRing - Nice right leaning thin handcrack. Very good route.
Meatgrinder - 5.10A - 2X leading, 1X TRing. Had to hang at the overhanging #3 camalot section near the top all 3 times. Fun climb.
Hind Quarters - 5.10A - OK slab route right of Dogleg Crack, wouldn't do it again.
Givler's Crack - II 5.8 - 2X - Classic, a must do.
Icicle Creek Buttress
R&D - II 5.7 - Nice easy route. The last pitch is good. 3X leading, 1X freesolo.
Cocaine Crack - 5.10A - 3X - Incredible finger crack! Highly Recommended. 1 each following, TRing, and leading.
Spaghetti Sauce - 5.8 - Really nice pitch, good varied climbing. Starts out with a slab, then a clean lieback flake, then a crack. Fun!
Another Roadside Attraction - II 5.9 - Fun 3 pitch 5.9 slab climb, all three pitches are easy 5.9. Pretty good.
Third Crack - Fun offwidth dihedral, felt more like 5.7.
Fourth Crack - Nice fingercrack / flake. Felt like 5.8.
Fifth Crack, easy exit - 5.8 - Fun dihedral fingercrack with a juggy steep exit.
Fifth Crack, hard exit - 5.10C - Overhanging technical stemming and tips liebacking. Fun stuff.
8 Mile Rock
Classic Crack - 5.8+ - Great handcrack! Felt hard for an 8+ the first time I did it, now it feels like 5.6. (4X)
Twin Cracks - 5.8 - Ok route, it is climbed by people waiting for the above.
5.6 flake - Fun liebacking and jambing.
5.8 handcrack - Nice handjambing to OW.
5.9 Corner Slab - Really short, ok route.
5.10C Flared Crack next to it - Bad climb, you have to use double gaston technique on the nasty flaring crack. Not recommended.
Yard Art - II 5.9 - Pitches 1 through 3 are nice, but 4 sucks.
Camarillo Brillo - 5.9 - The start is good with a steep handcrack but the top has nasty flaring gritty cracks.
Lawn Darts - 5.10A - Beautiful slab / face!
West Face of Peak-a-Boo Tower - 5.9 - Beautiful pitch with a hard offwidth and steep juggy face. A nice summit.
I've bouldered about 20 problems on several trips. Royal Flush is a must do. Several of the roof offwidth crack problems are very good as well.
Ski Tracks Crack - 5.9 - Really nice angling fingercrack, lead by Dan.
Keen Acres - 5.9+ - OK fingercrack / slab, easy for the grade.
Snakes - 5.9 - Dirty, crappy route. Way overgraded.
Gibson's Crack - A couple times. Fun easy handcrack, more like 5.7 than 5.5.
The Flame - II 5.9 - Bruce and I climbed this nice 4 pitch line on Midnight Rock in September of 07. Really enjoyed pitches 2, 3, and the first half of 4. Pitch #2 seams stout, harder than any 10a at Vantage. Fun times.
|Posted May 15, 2006 3:17 pm|
|younkin||Route Climbed: Icicle Creek, Givlers Dome, Classic Crack and Balanced Rock Date Climbed: 69, 70|
|My partners were Laurie Fink, Larry Weis and Bill Lingley.|
|Posted Nov 5, 2005 4:40 am|