"As of summer 2004 there was a fixed pin and tricam just before the step around with a spot for a #1 camalot up high just before comitting to the step around" There are now two pins protecting the "step around" the higher one, it might be in the place you used the camalot, is only about half in and should be replaced.
Did the route yesterday for the first time. On the first pitch, the fixed pin (drawn in the 1993 Vogel Guide, P. 83) half way up the innitial crack (on the first pitch) is broken. There are two fixed pins at the step-around, one bellow the step (old one) and one above the step (a new angle pin). The higher new one is just three quarters way in as the crack bottoms out. If you are unsure of your lead, you can place a cam just above the lower (old) pin and equalize the two pieces. Please do not remove the new angle!! It is really quite a decent piece of pro!! After the step-around, a much cleaner way up is to just make a short step to the right and climb a steep, short tower with great holds, ending up at a beefy bolt and a 5.6 (or so) friction move or two up to the 4th class exit ledge. In my opinion, this is likely the best 5.6 route on Tahquitz!!
Hyadventure - May 22, 2007 7:10 pm - Hasn't voted
As of May 2007"As of summer 2004 there was a fixed pin and tricam just before the step around with a spot for a #1 camalot up high just before comitting to the step around" There are now two pins protecting the "step around" the higher one, it might be in the place you used the camalot, is only about half in and should be replaced.
asmrz - Oct 31, 2008 4:35 pm - Voted 10/10
October 30, 2008Did the route yesterday for the first time. On the first pitch, the fixed pin (drawn in the 1993 Vogel Guide, P. 83) half way up the innitial crack (on the first pitch) is broken. There are two fixed pins at the step-around, one bellow the step (old one) and one above the step (a new angle pin). The higher new one is just three quarters way in as the crack bottoms out. If you are unsure of your lead, you can place a cam just above the lower (old) pin and equalize the two pieces. Please do not remove the new angle!! It is really quite a decent piece of pro!! After the step-around, a much cleaner way up is to just make a short step to the right and climb a steep, short tower with great holds, ending up at a beefy bolt and a 5.6 (or so) friction move or two up to the 4th class exit ledge. In my opinion, this is likely the best 5.6 route on Tahquitz!!