Lighthouse, 5.9-5.12a Climber's Log

Viewing: 1-5 of 5
SarahThompson

SarahThompson - Apr 21, 2014 12:12 pm Date Climbed: Apr 16, 2014

Lonely Vigil  Sucess!

Led the short approach pitch and followed Noah up tower proper. Loved the stem box, sort of Eldo-esque. Overall I thought the route had a large number of nice face holds and jugs for a desert climb!

We managed to run the rope over the top in a somewhat sketchy way so we could lower each other off instead of downclimbing.

Diggler

Diggler - Nov 10, 2012 3:07 pm Date Climbed: Nov 9, 2012

Fantastic!  Sucess!

Did Lonely Vigil with Mike Thomas. Great formation & climb! Challenging, sustained, & FUN from almost top to bottom. Thought that either squeeze chimney to stem transition, or as Radek mentioned, the (almost) crackless dihedral right below the (top of) P2 belay was the crux. By & large well-protected. You can actually get in some bomber pieces right below the summit mantle (a yellow Alien & purple Link Cam, in my case), but if you were to somehow fall, they wouldn't keep you from decking onto the platform below (they'd keep you from falling off the formation, though). Great climb & day!

utclimber - Mar 11, 2010 10:34 am Date Climbed: Oct 17, 2009

Lonely Vigil  Sucess!

We climbed the Lonely Vigil Route on Lighthouse followed by the Kor Route on Dolomite in a day.

brandon

brandon - Jan 5, 2007 9:21 pm

Lonely Vigil  Sucess!

Super fun, especially the overhanging stems to jugs. Exiting this pitch is hard, fixed mank sling A0. If you get that far, summit block is easy, but serious. Each should lead and downclimb, with a rope over the top for the downclimb.

rpc

rpc - Jan 23, 2006 8:52 pm

Route Climbed: Lonely Vigil Date Climbed: January 1, 2006  Sucess!

Last climb of our roadtrip (TR here) and first climb of '06. Quality line! Summit block is not as bad as some suggest. If the lower pitches of Lonely Vigil don't give you major issues, neither will the summit block. HOWEVER, setting up a TR for the second is questionable (did not really feel that safe). Cool little tower with limited views :)

Viewing: 1-5 of 5
Return to 'Lighthouse, 5.9-5.12a' main page