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Little Bear Peak Climber's Log

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SarahThompsonHourglass / NW Face & Winter Ascent  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 17, 2005


9/17/05 - Climbed the hourglass route from camp at Lake Como.

6/10/06 - One day blitz of the Lake Como Trio. Climbed the NW Face of Little Bear, did the classic traverse to Blanca, stayed on the ridge to Ellingwood, and descended Ellingwood's SW ridge.

2/28/09 - Climbed the NW Face (protected everything from the black hand, up). Descended the standard Hourglass route. 18 hrs car to car. NW Face = cold in winter
Posted Mar 13, 2008 1:38 pm

MountainHikerCOLightning  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 22, 2001


This was my second climb of Little Bear. We did the standard hourglass route. We were hurried by lightning on the return.
Posted Feb 22, 2008 8:40 pm

MountainHikerCOHourglass  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 25, 1994


This was my first climb of Little Bear. We did the stardard West Ridge route through the Hourglass from Como Lake.
Posted Feb 22, 2008 8:38 pm

tomlaurenLittle Bear - Blanca - Ellingwood Pt in a day  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 23, 2007


From camp at Lake Como, climbed the West Ridge of Little Bear, performed the traverse to Blanca Peak, then descended Blanca's Northwest Face to Ellingwood Point's South Face with my friend Keith. The hourglass wasn't too bad. I never touched the ropes, but I also have a rock climbing background. We saw a little bear while hiking up the jeep road to Lake Como. Kind of ironic.
Posted Feb 3, 2008 7:02 am

SheetsBlanca-LB traverse solo  Sucess!


Climbed Blanca traversed to LB and then reversed the LB-Blanca traverse to descend since I wasn't sure what the standard route up LB is. Don't recommend doing the same.
Posted Jan 27, 2008 9:37 pm

Mike McHourglass  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 15, 2007

Mike Mc

Hourglass to LB/Blanca Traverse to Blanca/Ellingwood Ridge to Ellingwood SW Ridge. The 'Hourglass' was not as bad as I expected; however, it was dry and we were alone on the peak. We dislodged a few rocks and these puppies sure were missiles heading down the gully. As for the fixed lines, double check the mess of anchors...quite a bit of the webbing (and ropes for that matter) looked sketch, to say the least!
Posted Sep 16, 2007 11:50 pm

dr_gonzhourglass  Sucess!


did it midweek... I got chased down last year by hail and lightning. This year I didnt have that problem at all. No one else on the route while I was there that day. The hourglass was not as bad as it hyped to be in my opinion. I think that I had played it up in my mind some. Lots of loose rock. no question.
Posted Sep 5, 2007 1:44 pm

mtnhiker13Hourglass Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 17, 2007


Glad to have climbed this mountain - great character building. Hourglass was of course very wet - climbed up to the left of the worst of it. Used a rope we brought to rap down. One person in our party was hit on the helmet with a rock - it's a pretty scary thing to see! She was ok.
Posted Aug 20, 2007 3:44 pm

ElliottDavisyay  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 18, 2007


Seven AM on top via the hourglass from Lake Como. I like getting up early - particularly for a humdinger of a mountain like this one. Wow.
Posted Aug 20, 2007 12:03 am

chicagotransplantNW Face up, Hourglass down  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 11, 2007


Climbed the NW Face route with Jamie Nellis. Started to rain a little just below the summit. It was short lived, but we unfortunately had to descend the hourglass with wet rock. I don't know what its like dry, but wet the hourglass was scary!
Posted Aug 12, 2007 9:16 pm

K_G_WrightYou Call Those "Fixed" Lines?  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 25, 2007


Started at 0400 at the big parking lot just off hwy 150 (8000ft). 0930 I made Lake Como. Approx. 1215, I made it to the "Hourglass Couloir." By 1300, I was on the top. 1345 to 1500 got hailed and rained on, and by 1900 I was back to the car. The "fixed lines" were pretty manky (one had a ten foot section of missing sheath), and both had been cut out and retied, but they held me on descent. It's probably safer to do as a spring snow climb. Glad to have been solo up in the "bowling alley". Outstanding time!
Posted Jul 31, 2007 6:24 pm

ClearSkiesAheadThe Hourglass  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Apr 22, 2007


We went up and camped in one of the huts at Lake Como on the 21st and woke up and headed up the first couloir up to the ridge around 4:45AM. On top of the ridge we had some fantastic views of the alpenglow consuming the valley as the sun rose.

The hourglass was in fairly good shape, although there were a couple spots where the snow was so hard that we were simply frontpointing it with our crampons as if we were climbing a waterfall in Ouray or something. Anyways, this is perhaps my favorite 14'er to date as both the climb and the views from the top were absolutely breathtaking.
Posted Jun 28, 2007 12:13 pm

bernardhohmanSnow Climb in the Hourglass  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 12, 2007


Great snow climb of the Hourglass. Great weather and a great summit!
Posted May 14, 2007 2:25 pm

Old IckabodHourglass Snow Climb  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 12, 2007

Old Ickabod

Awesome weather and spectacular snow climb. Mostly snow in the hourglass all the way to the summit. Some tricky downclimbing, but a great glissade back to the lake.
Posted May 13, 2007 9:21 pm

GerrySRoute Climbed: Southwest Ridge Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 4, 2006


Yep, a long, endless talus route - considering the tread wear on my Asolos, I left about $40 dollars of boot on the ridge. However, I didn't have to dodge any rocks or yell a single embarrassing "ROCK!" from rocks I kicked loose. The traverse from South Little Bear to Little Bear took almost 2 hours - lots of route finding. But the return trip took just under 20 minutes (we knew the way by then). Use a GPS with trackback turned on for the bushwhacking!
Posted Dec 10, 2006 7:15 am

TiogaBradfordHourglass  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 8, 2006


Fantastic climb - my first Class 4 peak......and I loved it! We started hiking the Lake Como road at 2:00am, reached the lake by 6:00am, and summitted around 9am. We were fortunate to be the first up the hourglass that day, which lessened the risk of rockfall. We only saw 3 other people on the mountain that day (with very good weather too!)
Posted Sep 23, 2006 12:32 am

shanahan96three's a charm  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 25, 2006


March 15, 2013- winter summit with emily and jason via the southwest ridge. terrain got interesting just before the southern summit, and didn't relent. the ledges leading to the main summit are fantastic when covered in snow!

May 6, 2007- jamie and i climbed the hourglass today. it was alot steeper(55 degrees) than expected. perch made for an awesome snow climb on really hard snow....feet still hurt from kicking steps!

July 25, 2006- climbed the northwest face(hand route) in 1:59 from the como area high camp in preparation for the traverse to blanca. it wasn't super exposed like i expected, but it was nice to ascend another way than the hourglass.

Posted Aug 11, 2006 2:21 am

Brian KaletWest Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 8, 2006

Brian Kalet

What Brad said. Daytrip from the road.
Posted Jul 10, 2006 11:06 pm

Brad SniderStandard Route in Rain  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 8, 2006

Brad Snider

Kalet and I had this peak all to ourselves on a very rainy day. Started the traverse to Blanca, but couldn't see anything b/c of thick fog, and everything was dangerously wet from the incessant rain. Turned back, climbed back over LB and descended via the soaking wet hourglass.
Posted Jul 9, 2006 1:07 am

jratknw face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 25, 2006


4 wheeled for a while up the road, hiked in and did ellingwood and blanca. Great weather, set up a bivy and climbed little bear the next day via nw face. Fantastic 4th class climbing. Descended the hourglass, scary rockfall. All in all, best 14er to date.
Posted Jun 13, 2006 3:41 am

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