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Little Guide's Wall, 5.6-5.11c
Mountain/Rock

Little Guide's Wall, 5.6-5.11c

 
Little Guide\'s Wall, 5.6-5.11c

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Texas, United States, North America

Object Title: Little Guide's Wall, 5.6-5.11c

County: Travis

Activities: Sport Climbing, Toprope

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter

 

Page By: Bob Sihler

Created/Edited: Oct 21, 2017 / Oct 21, 2017

Object ID: 1009277

Hits: 57 

Page Score: 77.48%  - 8 Votes 

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Overview

One of the farthest walls from the trailhead at North Shore, Little Guide's Wall does not see the traffic that Middle Earth Wall does, yet it has a nice assortment of moderates plus several 5.11 routes (I know some people are calling 11a moderate now, but come on).

These are single-pitch sport routes on sharp, sometimes-chossy limestone. Most are 30-40' in length.

The right-most route here is next to the left end of Buzzard's Roof, a pretty distinguishing feature.

Getting There

Trail Split
Trail Split-- go right for all but Matrix, Dude, and Unleashed

Reimers Ranch is located off Hamilton Pool Road about 6 miles west of its intersection with Ranch Road 12. It is about 45 minutes west from downtown Austin.

Once through the entrance station, drive to the end of the road (around 4 miles from the entrance station), following signs for "North Bank." 

The main access trail starts by the trash bins. 

Take the main trail down and then bear right, crossing the stream, at the junction shown above. Walk 15 minutes or so, past marked spurs to first Middle Earth Wall and then Gypsy Wall, until the trail heads up to the cliffs. Pass some other walls to reach Little Guide's. The trail takes you right to the middle of the crag. Buzzard's Roof is just to the right. A short distance left is Awesome Roof, easily identified by the many permadraws. If you love roof traverses on permadraws, there is a 5.8 with an 11a extension (the 5.8 messes with people enough because of the hanging permadraws that you clip from behind), and there is a longer 12d (and several other options).

Routes

From left to right:
  • Call of the Wild Man, 5.11b
  • Wild Men Wear Heels, 5.11c-d
  • Leap of Faith, 5.10c
  • Live Action, 5.10d-11a R
  • War on Choss, 5.11b
  • Rattled, 5.11b-c
  • Menopause Mania, 5.11a
  • White Horse Mescalito, 5.11a-- The crux is pulling the roof below the anchors; all the great jugs disappear and you need to work with crimps to get the feet up. This crux is well-protected. Before that, it's fun, juggy 5.9-5.10 climbing.
  • Bengy Bengy Fever, 5.10a-- Weird starting sequence may leave you questioning the grade. Pumpy finish.
  • Bergargle, 5.11a-- Crux is the start; then it's easy and fun.
  • PLD, 5.9-- Maybe it was just that day's conditions, but I found this dirty and unpleasant, and harder than the 10bs by it.
  • Champaign and Strawberries, 5.10b-- Fun climb. Crux is pulling the roof.
  • What a Load, 5.10b PG-- Also fun. Crux is thin stuff above the last bolt.
  • Cursed Ascent, 5.7/5.8-- The first time I climbed this, it felt 5.8 because of an awkward sequence to reach the anchors. The second time, I tried a different approach and felt it was more like 5.7.
  • Rambo Princess, 5.6/5.7-- Only one real climbing move on this and the rest is a scramble. This route is so ledgy that you might consider rapping down instead of lowering and toproping.
  • Choose Your Path, 5.9-- Very cool sequence to the anchors.
  • Bound to Divide, 5.8-- Somewhat chossy but a nice warm-up or cool-down.
Little Guide's Wall-- Cursed Ascent, 5.7/5.8
Little Guide's Wall-- Cursed Ascent, 5.7/5.8

Little Guide's Wall-- Rambo Princess, 5.6/5.7
Little Guide's Wall-- Rambo Princess, 5.6/5.7

Little Guide's Wall-- Choose Your Path, 5.9
Little Guide's Wall-- Choose Your Path, 5.9

Little Guide's Wall-- Bound To Divide, 5.8
Little Guide's Wall-- Bound To Divide, 5.8

Red Tape

The daily entry fee is currently $10. Annual passes are $100 and well worth it if you climb here a lot. I bought an annual pass in August and by October had come out more than 10 times. Plus, the annual pass is good for all Travis County parks. Unfortunately, the pass is a windshield decal, not a card. If you want a duplicate pass for a second vehicle, you get to pay $50 for it. Nice racket they have going there.

Opening and closing times vary by the season. Check the park website.

Climbers in Central Texas are well acquainted with the biting ants all over the place. Watch where you stand and where you step.

This part of Texas is also home to all four types of venomous North American snakes-- copperheads, cottonmouths, rattlesnakes, and coral snakes. Again, watch out, especially for the coral snakes. They are shy and bites are very rare, but their venom is highly potent and can be fatal. Also, it is my understanding that antivenin for coral snakes is in very short supply and highly expensive due to the fact that bites are so rare.

When to Climb

All year. Most of the walls face northwest and get good shade for much or all of the day. Since it is usually 90-100+ F out here May through September, it obviously makes sense to climb in the morning during summer. It's rarely too cold to climb here, but in winter, waiting until afternoon is a good bet. This wall gets just about no sun in winter.

If you have the flexibility, climb on weekdays. This place, and even most of Reimers Proper, is virtually deserted then except during spring and winter breaks.

Camping

None inside the park.

About 7 miles east on Hamilton Pool Road is Rock Dog, owned and operated by local climbers. I've never been there but have heard the owners are awesome climbers and awesome people. Unfortunately, it currently is closed due to irresponsible campers trashing the place.

Images

Little Guide\'s Wall-- Left SideLittle Guide\'s Wall-- Cursed Ascent, 5.7/5.8Little Guide\'s Wall-- Rambo Princess, 5.6/5.7Little Guide\'s Wall-- Choose Your Path, 5.9Little Guide\'s Wall-- Bound To Divide, 5.8