I did the same as Deb and had the same impression of the route. Stay as far to the left (west) as possible on the south slope from Morgan Pass, without venturing into the 5th class. This is a great scramble with plenty of 3rd class ribs reminiscent of the gendarmes on Gendarme Peak. Then gain the false summit above the class 5 part of the west ridge and follow the ridgeline to the true summit. The granite is sturdy and the holds are bomber. Don't listen to the people who say this route is a crappy talus slog. They think that because they hiked the class 2 chutes on the south face. Their loss. That is indeed crap rock. But if you stay out of the chutes and hug the western edge from Morgan Pass, you will have a wonderful climb. Do it! I've climbed almost all the mountains in this area, and the only one I liked better was Bear Creek Spire.
Donno - Aug 13, 2016 8:32 pm Date Climbed: Jul 26, 2016
From Morgan Pass
9hrs r/t from Mosquito Pass. Loose shitty talus until you gain the ridge, then good 3rd class to summit. Nasty descent back to pass. Next time, try NW ridge!
bechtt - Jun 29, 2015 6:23 pm Date Climbed: Jun 28, 2015
Southwest Rib
Hmmm -- must have picked the wrong way. Some scary loose spots for the first 300' going up the rib (left of wide chute above Chickenfoot Lake). The rest, while loose, wasn't precarious. Not sure why people rave about this crappy rock when I compare it to the solid Sierra granite on Pipsqueak the day before. The traverse to Morgan was also ho-hum.
tbaranski - Aug 18, 2014 11:32 pm Date Climbed: Aug 18, 2014
West Chute
Ended up going up the right-most chute on the west side. Got sucked in by what looked like a use trail from the talus above Chickenfoot Lake, but it was from drainage rather than humans.
Not a bad chute overall -- surprisingly un-loose, decent class-3. Once you hit the ridge there are 2-3 false summits in your way.
Deb - Jun 17, 2013 10:48 pm Date Climbed: Jun 17, 2013
From Morgan Pass
Without getting into the 5th class slabs, I stayed far left after leaving trail and found much fun Class 3 and traversed the entire ridge. Beautiful views!
Very underrated. I've done this a couple of times now, the last on the traverse to Morgan. I'd say this is solid class 3 to the summit, but no more. Even the traverse to Morgan, which Moynier rates class 4, seemed only class 3. Amazing views of the Little Lakes Valley peaks from the summit. When I first climbed this some dozen years ago, the register showed only about ten ascents over as many prior years.
Enjoyable class 4 slabs from Morgan Pass. Ran out of time and bailed on the traverse to Morgan.
dshoshone - Nov 27, 2007 5:29 pm Date Climbed: Nov 26, 2007
NW Ridge
Excellent climb, class 3 for the most part with a few easy class 4 sections. Better than a lot of the more popular peaks in the area. There was no summit register, just a carin.
Route Climbed: NW Ridge Date Climbed: May 27, 2005
A solid route that lives up to its billing in Secor. Did this as a day traverse of LLP and Mt. Morgan. The route is mostly class 3 with a few cl. 4 sections around the towers half way up. The views are outstanding the whole way.
CWessels - Jul 15, 2018 1:11 pm Date Climbed: Jul 14, 2018
From Morgan PassI did the same as Deb and had the same impression of the route. Stay as far to the left (west) as possible on the south slope from Morgan Pass, without venturing into the 5th class. This is a great scramble with plenty of 3rd class ribs reminiscent of the gendarmes on Gendarme Peak. Then gain the false summit above the class 5 part of the west ridge and follow the ridgeline to the true summit. The granite is sturdy and the holds are bomber. Don't listen to the people who say this route is a crappy talus slog. They think that because they hiked the class 2 chutes on the south face. Their loss. That is indeed crap rock. But if you stay out of the chutes and hug the western edge from Morgan Pass, you will have a wonderful climb. Do it! I've climbed almost all the mountains in this area, and the only one I liked better was Bear Creek Spire.
Donno - Aug 13, 2016 8:32 pm Date Climbed: Jul 26, 2016
From Morgan Pass9hrs r/t from Mosquito Pass. Loose shitty talus until you gain the ridge, then good 3rd class to summit. Nasty descent back to pass. Next time, try NW ridge!
bechtt - Jun 29, 2015 6:23 pm Date Climbed: Jun 28, 2015
Southwest RibHmmm -- must have picked the wrong way. Some scary loose spots for the first 300' going up the rib (left of wide chute above Chickenfoot Lake). The rest, while loose, wasn't precarious. Not sure why people rave about this crappy rock when I compare it to the solid Sierra granite on Pipsqueak the day before. The traverse to Morgan was also ho-hum.
tbaranski - Aug 18, 2014 11:32 pm Date Climbed: Aug 18, 2014
West ChuteEnded up going up the right-most chute on the west side. Got sucked in by what looked like a use trail from the talus above Chickenfoot Lake, but it was from drainage rather than humans.
Not a bad chute overall -- surprisingly un-loose, decent class-3. Once you hit the ridge there are 2-3 false summits in your way.
Deb - Jun 17, 2013 10:48 pm Date Climbed: Jun 17, 2013
From Morgan PassWithout getting into the 5th class slabs, I stayed far left after leaving trail and found much fun Class 3 and traversed the entire ridge. Beautiful views!
fatdad - Oct 1, 2009 4:49 pm
From Morgan PassVery underrated. I've done this a couple of times now, the last on the traverse to Morgan. I'd say this is solid class 3 to the summit, but no more. Even the traverse to Morgan, which Moynier rates class 4, seemed only class 3. Amazing views of the Little Lakes Valley peaks from the summit. When I first climbed this some dozen years ago, the register showed only about ten ascents over as many prior years.
soslaw - Sep 21, 2009 2:51 pm Date Climbed: Sep 14, 2009
S. FaceEnjoyable class 4 slabs from Morgan Pass. Ran out of time and bailed on the traverse to Morgan.
dshoshone - Nov 27, 2007 5:29 pm Date Climbed: Nov 26, 2007
NW RidgeExcellent climb, class 3 for the most part with a few easy class 4 sections. Better than a lot of the more popular peaks in the area. There was no summit register, just a carin.
Completebum - Sep 16, 2005 12:51 pm
Route Climbed: NW Ridge Date Climbed: May 27, 2005A solid route that lives up to its billing in Secor. Did this as a day traverse of LLP and Mt. Morgan. The route is mostly class 3 with a few cl. 4 sections around the towers half way up. The views are outstanding the whole way.
HenneB - Sep 14, 2005 1:31 pm
Route Climbed: Class 2 scree slope on south side Date Climbed: 9-11-2005Highly enjoyable climb, mainly due to the exciting traverse from Little Lakes Peak to Mount Morgan. Beautiful views of the entire Rock Creek Area.