ApproachSee main page and route Llauset-Ib.Chelaus
Route DescriptionTrailhead: Dam of Llauset (2200m)
Time to summit: 2h 50min.
This is the shortest itinerary to reach the summit of Vallibierna from Llauset, but you must know some things:
-This route reach the peak Tuca de les Culebres and if you want to climb the main summit of Vallibierna, it's necessary the cross the impressive Paso del Caballo.
-The ravine of Llauset it's a collection of stones with a hard slope (easy but unconfortable)
The trailhead is the same of route of Ibones Chelaus following to the tail of lake/dam.
We follow the evident channel in direction west with cairns (the signal is break nowadays, june 2005) leaving the marks of paint of the route of GR-Ibones Chelaus.
This channel goes to the wide ravine of Llauset near of the water of river ascending in zig-zag to reach a little path among the stones. This is a heavy and inconvinient itinerary but very evident up to the base of the rocky peak Llauset. Under the peaks Llauset (left) and Culebres (right) is the col of Llauset (2865m).
A good complementary climb is the peak Llauset (2910m, 15 min from the col, F, climb grade I in rock) with good view of ravine of Llauset.
In the col we follow the cairns in direction to Culebres bordering the peak across the left side (west) to evitate the spun that descent from the peak. We reach a hillside more easy turning in direction NE to reach the ridge of Culebres (some step-crossing of grade I in the rocks and scarps).
Summit of Tuca de Culebres (3062m).
To reach the main summit of peak Vallibierna (3067m) you must cross the Paso del caballo. If you don't want to cross another time to return from the same route (it's not a good idea) you must to descent across the route of Ibones Chelaus
Essential GearEarly in the season (spring, some of the first days of summer) and of course in winter, the col of Llauset have a ramp of snow and it's neccessay the use of crampons and ice-axe.
The ice seller is avoidable in may-june across other hillsides of ravine of Llauset or other cols in the range of Llauset with less snow. Each year is different and you must to consult to the use of crampons in april-may-june.