Almost perfect conditions Date Climbed: Jul 15, 2013
Thanks to an unusual amount of snow in the spring of 2013, by mid July there was still plenty left. No bare ice, and the scree at the bottom of the final section was nicely covered.
Earlier on the snow was just the right consistency. Hard enough not to sink very deep, and just soft enough to provide sufficient traction. I only needed my crampons above the shoulder, when it got steeper. A little higher up on the N ridge / N face was no snow anymore, and now I had to be careful on the slabs. I made my way up along the cracks and the edges of the slabs. I climbed solo.
"As an adolescent I aspired to lasting fame, I craved factual certainty, and I thirsted for a meaningful vision of human life - so I became a scientist. This is like becoming an archbishop so you can meet girls."