Londinium, 5.10c : Photos, Diagrams & Topos : SummitPost

Londinium- 33m-5.10c/ Another fun and sustained, but weird pitch. I used old ice doubles in twin formation….as I neared the top, I wished I had my rock doubles with me as the route takes a much more drastic right turn than reflected on the topo in John Martin’s guide book. The ropes ran out 35m to 40m and I was faced with some serious rope drag on that right traverse which involves the crux move of the pitch. No worries, but would rather have had some runners (vs draws) on a single rope or used true doubles. The route is not designed to be top roped for the 2nd unless you want to rig it up that way with two ropes and pass the knot when the 2nd is at the low rappel station. There are rap rings 24m down, but you can stretch this into a 30m rap with a thin dynamic rope straight down if the belayer will walk out left up the wall. Super route, not any more difficult than Byzantium, but not near as straight. Again, you will speed through it the 2nd time once you know where all the keys are.
House of Cards, Right, Cougar Canyon, Canmore, AB, September, 2007