Route Climbed: From Meysan Lake Date Climbed: May, 1970
Enjoyable, straight-forward climb from Meysan Lakes. Great view of the Whitney area and a memorable glissade back down. Only remarkable feature of climb was in camping on the Meysan Lakes trail during the hike in the previous day. Next day was up and out.
Route Climbed: North Ridge Date Climbed: 6-12/13-1999
In general, this is a great climb and highly recommended to gain experience with planned bivi's, route finding and lots of scenic and exposed 4th class climbing.
As with all long routes, route finding proves to be one of the most important considerations. This route is no exception. Be sure not to miss the short down climb which leads to the 5th class pitch. Otherwise you will spend a little extra time rappelling down off the ridge and into the main chute higher up on the route than really necessary. Once you climb up and over the gap, careful attention is needed on some of the sandy ledges described as class three due to fall potential. After the traverse, it's a relatively easy and fun straight scramble to the top.
The North Ridge can either be climbed in one very long day, or two shorter days. Climbed with N. Clyma who did his usual great job of leading and climbing.
"After the first glass, you see things as you wish they were. After the second, you see things as they are not. Finally, you see things as they really are, which is the most horrible thing in the world."
--Oscar Wilde on Absinthe