Route Climbed: Winter Route, IV, 5.7 Date Climbed: January 14-15, 1984
I climbed this route with the native Picos De Europa (Spain)climber and since 1979 LA resident, Miguel Carmona. THIS is great introduction into Sierra Winter climbing. Since the route is mostly facing South, it gets sun even in winter. There is 80-100 feet long ice pitch just below the Winter Route/Direct South Face notch. The ice is thin and steep. Bring two tools and crampons for it. It's not there every year, but its hard to get past it without tools. If you combine this route with going to the summit, it will be one of the winter Sierra climbs, you will not forget for a while. This climb really "IS" winter outing. In summer, it has completely different character and really does not offer much. In winter, it's a different story. The ice might only be there in Jan/Feb timeframe. Above the Notch, follow the ledge and crack/face system (5.7) to the top.
Route Climbed: N.Ridge Date Climbed: November 2 2002
Many places to dead end and get lost but many ways out of trouble. Seemingly more towers than the guide books point out, most of which require some serious down-climbing to get back on route. Spectacular setting. Spectacular day.
Well worth the lousy, loose descent and the long hike out.
This is one hard devious route, but clean rock and a wild setting. Climbed this ( might have been the 10th ascent according to those who know ) with Tim Winiarski and Gary Hinton. A total epic including running out of water and an unwanted almost rescue due to people in the Owen Valley seeing our headlamps! I have a topo if anyone is interested - email me at craig@mckinleycompany.com
Route Climbed: Direct South Face V, 5.7, A1 Date Climbed: 1980
This is the first big wall I ever climbed ( with Gary Hinton ) and highly recomended. No aid except a tension traverse, but lots of fun and interesting climbing! A Fred Beckey masterpiece! I have a little topo book available - email me for it at craig@mckinleycompany.com
Route Climbed: North Ridge Date Climbed: 6-12/13-1999
In general, this is a great climb and highly recommended to gain experience with planned bivi's, route finding and lots of scenic and exposed 4th class climbing.
As with all long routes, route finding proves to be one of the most important considerations. This route is no exception. Be sure not to miss the short down climb which leads to the 5th class pitch. Otherwise you will spend a little extra time rappelling down off the ridge and into the main chute higher up on the route than really necessary. Once you climb up and over the gap, careful attention is needed on some of the sandy ledges described as class three due to fall potential. After the traverse, it's a relatively easy and fun straight scramble to the top.
The North Ridge can either be climbed in one very long day, or two shorter days. Climbed with N. Clyma who did his usual great job of leading and climbing.
asmrz - Nov 9, 2002 9:11 am
Route Climbed: Winter Route, IV, 5.7 Date Climbed: January 14-15, 1984I climbed this route with the native Picos De Europa (Spain)climber and since 1979 LA resident, Miguel Carmona. THIS is great introduction into Sierra Winter climbing. Since the route is mostly facing South, it gets sun even in winter. There is 80-100 feet long ice pitch just below the Winter Route/Direct South Face notch. The ice is thin and steep. Bring two tools and crampons for it. It's not there every year, but its hard to get past it without tools. If you combine this route with going to the summit, it will be one of the winter Sierra climbs, you will not forget for a while. This climb really "IS" winter outing. In summer, it has completely different character and really does not offer much. In winter, it's a different story. The ice might only be there in Jan/Feb timeframe. Above the Notch, follow the ledge and crack/face system (5.7) to the top.
jeffn - Nov 5, 2002 8:48 pm
Route Climbed: N.Ridge Date Climbed: November 2 2002Many places to dead end and get lost but many ways out of trouble. Seemingly more towers than the guide books point out, most of which require some serious down-climbing to get back on route. Spectacular setting. Spectacular day.
Well worth the lousy, loose descent and the long hike out.
Langenbacher - Oct 4, 2002 5:19 pm
Route Climbed: Class 2 chute, NW slope. Date Climbed: September 29, 20022.5 hours to summit from camp near lakes at base of chute.
almost 1 inch of snow on ground. see http://home.pacbell.net/harryla/harrypage/mountains.htm#LonePinePeak
Craig Peer - Sep 23, 2002 11:19 am
Route Climbed: Bastille Buttress V, 5.8 - 5.10, A3+ Date Climbed: 1981This is one hard devious route, but clean rock and a wild setting. Climbed this ( might have been the 10th ascent according to those who know ) with Tim Winiarski and Gary Hinton. A total epic including running out of water and an unwanted almost rescue due to people in the Owen Valley seeing our headlamps! I have a topo if anyone is interested - email me at craig@mckinleycompany.com
Craig Peer - Sep 23, 2002 11:14 am
Route Climbed: Direct South Face V, 5.7, A1 Date Climbed: 1980This is the first big wall I ever climbed ( with Gary Hinton ) and highly recomended. No aid except a tension traverse, but lots of fun and interesting climbing! A Fred Beckey masterpiece! I have a little topo book available - email me for it at craig@mckinleycompany.com
TonyM - Dec 26, 2001 7:36 pm
Route Climbed: North Ridge Date Climbed: 6-12/13-1999In general, this is a great climb and highly recommended to gain experience with planned bivi's, route finding and lots of scenic and exposed 4th class climbing.
As with all long routes, route finding proves to be one of the most important considerations. This route is no exception. Be sure not to miss the short down climb which leads to the 5th class pitch. Otherwise you will spend a little extra time rappelling down off the ridge and into the main chute higher up on the route than really necessary. Once you climb up and over the gap, careful attention is needed on some of the sandy ledges described as class three due to fall potential. After the traverse, it's a relatively easy and fun straight scramble to the top.
The North Ridge can either be climbed in one very long day, or two shorter days. Climbed with N. Clyma who did his usual great job of leading and climbing.