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Longs Peak Climber's Log

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coloradoiceclimberRoute Climbed: Lambs Slide to Kieners Date Climbed: June 1 - June 2, 2003

coloradoiceclimber

Two great sunrises for the price of one!! See the TR by Jason. Longs Peak was my first true mountain climbing experience in May of '99. I was in Colorado for the summer and linked up with a couple of guys who were willing to throw an axe in my hand and give me a crash course on walking w/crampons and how to self arrest. A spring ascent of Longs Peak via the Keyhole Route was a wild way to jump into the world of mountaineering! Since the first climb I have climbed Longs several times including full moon climbs. RMNP and Longs are truly an amazing place! I also climbed the Keyhole Ridge route with Jason and Chris on my 30th birthday. That makes six trips to the summit!
Posted Apr 10, 2004 2:53 pm

KimberlyRoute Climbed: The Keyhole Date Climbed: September 2001  Sucess!

Kimberly

I climbed it while pregnant to prepare for crossing the Himalaya Mountains when I was five months pregnant.
Posted Apr 5, 2004 4:44 pm

Erik BeelerRoute Climbed: Key Hole Date Climbed: Aug 21, 2003  Sucess!

Erik Beeler

See my trip report.
Posted Apr 1, 2004 10:38 am

Pencil PusherRoute Climbed: Keyhole Date Climbed: 1993  Sucess!

Pencil Pusher

Nice summit day, but I sure didn't like that traverse before the final scramble to the summit. Man I tell you I was darned ready to grab any fool that nudged me while on that thing. It was difficult passing with all the traffic going back and forth. The summit is huge and flat like a football field.

Nice thing about Colorado, all the peaks I hiked up were done in jeans and cotton. :)
Posted Mar 27, 2004 3:19 pm

GrantRoute Climbed: Keyhole Date Climbed: July 20, 2003  Sucess!

Grant

Started at 3:30 and it was pretty uneventful up to the Keyhole although once past the 12,200 foot pass (I can’t remember what’s called) it was very scenic when Longs Peak and the Keyhole came into view. Past the Keyhole is where the fun started the entire route was marked with bullets painted on the rocks. The trail was pretty easy until we hit the Trough, up the trough there was snow on the right side of it and rocks on the left. At first we jumped out on the snow and went up a couple hundred feet then climbed up the rocks a few hundred feet then back on the snow the finally back on the rocks. The rock in the Trough was pretty loose and there was one little section getting out of the Trough to what is called the Narrows that was a little tricky. The foot holds were small and slick and with the soles of my boots being wet the first couple steps were a little tricky.



Once out of the Narrows we went up the Homestretch. The rock in this area was very solid with lots of hand and foot holds but after going through a thousand feet of class III climbing I was getting pretty tired. Rod was moving quickly though this section and I was just taking my time. Rod waited about five minutes on top for me and we headed over to the boulder on the top that was the summit (9:20).
Posted Feb 25, 2004 9:19 pm

Sock MonkeyRoute Climbed: Keyhole Date Climbed: August 7, 2003  Sucess!

Sock Monkey

Long day of climbing with beautiful weather and great company!
Posted Dec 28, 2003 6:07 pm

Day HikerRoute Climbed: Keyhole Date Climbed: 07 August 2003  Sucess!

Day Hiker

I think it thunderstorms here every afternoon during monsoon season. It's not like the southern Sierras, where you can sometimes go a week or more without rain. I got nailed by thunderstorms and hail the last two times I hiked this mountain, and yep, I got it again this time. Maybe I should set my alarm clock, so I can start hiking early, like the smart people.
Posted Dec 28, 2003 12:50 am

deadrockRoute Climbed: Keyhole Route Date Climbed: December 24, 2003  Sucess!

deadrock

This was one of the epic mountains I've climbed. The weather was perfect, it meandered around 20 degrees F and the 0 degree mark at night. I made a camp near the frozen Columbine Falls where it blew spindrift into my vestible both nights. I woke up on the 24th at around 7:00 am and headed towards Chasm Lake. I then hiked up to the summit of Mount Lady Washington to a beautiful view. From here my goal was the Keyhole. The snow was fairly shallow with ice precariously formed on most of the rocks. I had to be very careful with each step. I was especially concerned with the black ice underneath the snow. Several times I managed to find this without wanting to. I made it up to the last traverse at around 1:00 pm and decided to keep going. It was very difficult to do so because of the intermintent snow/ice that seemed to drain every bit of energy from me. In a few choice sections, I was concerned that I didn't have a rope to repel after my climb. However this didn't stop me and I figured that I was taking calculated risks. After one particular area, I descended to make sure it was possible. I finally made it to the summit at around 2:00 pm. I was rewarded with an incredible view of the surrounding mountains which made for a very memorable Christmas. I made it down safely and enjoyed an evening meal of chicken with noodles and wonderful cup of hot chocolate. As I headed out the next day (Christmas) I could see the clouds developing over the summit very rapidly and knew that I had just made it. I look forward to coming back soon.
Posted Dec 26, 2003 9:32 pm

chasejRoute Climbed: Keyhole Route Date Climbed: July 1, 2003  Sucess!

chasej

Climbed the route with my dad after first talking about it 22 years ago. Route was still in winter conditions with the Trough completely filled in. We were the only people camping at the Boulderfield. Perfect setting...highly recommended!
Posted Dec 22, 2003 1:09 pm

desainmeRoute Climbed: Keyhole Date Climbed: August 75 and 76  Sucess!

desainme

Was intrigued by Jon Bradford's tale. On one of my climbs one of our party got a big headache at the homestretch and quit. I think its just a couple of hundred feet up from there to the two acre corn field. Too bad. I enjoyed seeing the west face above the trough. Nobody ever writes about these cracks on the west face :-(
Posted Dec 19, 2003 6:56 pm

JonBradfordRoute Climbed: The Keyhole Date Climbed: June 24, 2002  Sucess!

JonBradford

Longs stands out as one of the scariest climbs I have been on. I got off route on the narrows and ascended the south-west side of the summit block; via some parallel cracks that were easy at first but ice filled later on. At one point an exposed dynamo was required to pull myself above a polished smooth granite slab. Before this the sewing machine legs was making me seriously reconsider my routefinding skills. I would guess the cracks were only 5.2 or so but at the time they tested me. I arrived on the flat summit drenched in sweat and utterly elated. The most exciting wrong turn I have ever made. The Homestrech was quite tame in comparesin (but agin raised the question what was I thinking to leave a bullseye painted route to head straight up a set of parrallel cracks above the south side cliffs). Great mountain but a little overly popular for my tastes.

Jon
Posted Dec 18, 2003 7:37 pm

summiteer16Route Climbed: keyhole Date Climbed: 7-16-03  Sucess!

summiteer16

Good climb. Started from Boulderfield. Rangers said tech climb. no way great view from summit, no wind either.
Posted Dec 13, 2003 8:29 pm

photo61guyRoute Climbed: Keyhole Date Climbed: July 6, 2000  Sucess!
A long day, but perfect weather !!
Posted Dec 10, 2003 1:24 am

bdewoodyRoute Climbed: Keyhole Date Climbed: September 1998, September 2003  Sucess!

bdewoody

First 14er I did after moving out to Colorado. Coming from Ohio only two weeks before, hauling a full pack up to the Boulderfield was no easy task. Probably the essential mountain for someone looking to do a 14er.
Posted Dec 3, 2003 6:33 pm

eckdoerryRoute Climbed: Keyhole Date Climbed: July 14, 2002  Sucess!

eckdoerry

Definitely a long day, but well worth it. The lower parts of the route were scenic but otherwise boring mileage. Things get more interesting AFTER you pass the keyhole and start the actual climb. The upper third to the summit is the best. We were up by 10am, had some great sun for lunch on the summit, and got down before the serious weather came in around 1pm. Made it back to car just as sprinkles were turning to downpour.
Posted Nov 28, 2003 11:15 am

jeffgunRoute Climbed: Keyhole route each time Date Climbed: Multiple  Sucess!

jeffgun

This was my first 14'er a few years ago and I have been back many times since. The view of the Meeker/Long's cirque at sunrise is one of the most inspiring sights I have ever seen.
Posted Nov 15, 2003 1:25 pm

RockyMtnHighRoute Climbed: Cable Route/Solo Date Climbed: 11/12/03  Sucess!
I grew up in Estes Park, and have made yearly pilgramages to the mountain several times each year. Many of them solo, and always a great time. This trip was a little different. I left for the mountain in Mid afternoon, planing a biovauc near Chasm Lake, that part of the trip went as planned. I didn't even need my snowshoes to get there as most of the snow was less then two feet deep, and 90 percent of it had a wind crust hard enough to support me even into the late afternoon. I set up my biovauc around 5:00pm and settled in for what would be a cold but comfortable night. At first light I was awakened by a howling wind and an unplesant ground blizard from the spindrift being generated off the snowfield of nearby Mt.Meeker I ate a hasty breakfast, strapped on my crampons, pulled out my only ice axe, and broke camp. I decided to have a go up to the loft, and scramble over the final hurdle to the summit proper, I was miserably defeated half way to the loft in grainy 3 foot deep snow that hissed around me like fluid as I worked upward. After 3 hours of slogging, I turned back, not wanting to become another statistic in Colorado climbing. I made it back past my previous camp in less then 45 minutes, and headed around to the old cable route. The conditions were vastly better. It was a combination of good hard ice, a little wind deposited snow, and some clean rock. I made very quick progress, until about 500 feet below the summit. Where the route usually is at its easiest, the snow was piled deep and loose again. I carfully made my way across it, over the finial ledge, and onto the summit itself. It was 230 in the afternoon, with beautiful clear skies, and a stiff wind kicking off spindrift plumes from most of the nearby peaks. A picture perfect winter ascent. I traversed the peak over to the South east side, made my way down to "Lambs Slide" and glissaded down as far as I could. This is where it got a little ugly. I found myself back in the vicinity of the same snow conditions that had defeated me on the way up, This time my fears were slightly different. The snow was no longer sandy and fluid, it had warmed enough that as I moved it began to "sluff" off the mountain. 200 feet shy of the snow shoot leading to the loft route (and back to Chasm Lake) I set off a small avalanche, it had little volume when it reached me, but hearing it pour over the sheer face to my left unnerved me enough that I had to sit down to collect myself. Back on my feet a few minutes later I gained the final snow shoot and glissaded back to the smooth runout above the lake. It was begining to turn dusk, and I raced out past the Rangers cabin, up the slope around Mt Lady Washington, and back to the trail proper. By the time I hit treeline on the way down it was dark, and I was alone. It was a beautiful walk back in the glow of my headlamp. Not a soul around, little wind, and my breath streaming out behind me. I'd finialy done it, Longs Peak, Technical, Winter, Solo. What a trip.
Posted Nov 13, 2003 12:27 pm

rgmackieRoute Climbed: North Face Cables Route Date Climbed: October 25, 2003  Sucess!
Trail was dry all the way up to just under the start of the route. Ice from cloud cover in the morning with sub-zero temps left the route a little slippery. Single ice tool used. Soloed up from boulder field.
Posted Nov 5, 2003 7:39 pm

marygilbertRoute Climbed: Keyhole Date Climbed: August, 2003  Sucess!

marygilbert

It was a high Adventure for me !!!! I know that the Keyhole Route is the Tourist Route, but for an East Coast Lady, it had about all of the challenge that I could stand at the time. The day was beautiful, the conditions perfect, my partners were experienced and had done it several times before....and I had never seen or done anything like that in My Life !!!!!....a Long and Exhausting and Wonderful day. I'm not one to be greedy,,or over ambitious, but the thoughts of climbing any of the real rock routes up that steep face sent both quivers through my spine and dreams into my head !!!!
Posted Oct 12, 2003 11:16 pm

ajsamuelRoute Climbed: Keyhole Date Climbed: July 2001  Sucess!

ajsamuel

Climbed Longs after a Rockies game one night. Didn't get much sleep that week.
Posted Oct 8, 2003 2:40 pm

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