Welcome to SP!  -

Looking back at the North...

 
[ Sizes: Orig | Med | Small | Thumb ]
Looking back at the North...
Looking back at the North summit from near the "wave" pitch. This is how the 2nd half of the traverse looks like. In general, it is much more exposed and committing than the 1st half (before the North summit). You can see two climbers who contemplate yet another exposed downclimb with questionable pro - July 23, 2005

Comments


[ Post a Comment ]
Viewing: 1-13 of 13    

rpcGreat shot Misha!

rpc

Voted 10/10

Really need to climb this classic!
Posted Jul 27, 2005 12:39 pm

MishaRe: Great shot Misha!

Misha

Hasn't voted

Radek,

Thanks! Let me know when you're coming to do it. This will be at least an annual affair for me... love the climb so much!
Posted Jul 27, 2005 7:58 pm

Steve LarsonWould it be better...

Steve Larson

Voted 10/10

to rap this instead of downclimb?
Posted Jul 27, 2005 1:07 pm

MishaRe: Would it be better...

Misha

Hasn't voted

There was one rap anchor available which we did not use. I think it was intended for bailing and not traversing since it was positioned on the outside of the ridge. There are no rap anchors or easy flakes for slings at the spot where these guys are if I remember correctly... Most of the time you are forced to downclimb sketchy sections.
Posted Jul 27, 2005 1:27 pm

Dave KRe: Would it be better...

Dave K

Hasn't voted

I came from the other direction, but Misha describes that part of the traverse exactly how I remember it. There is rusty old piton up there, but that is most definitely not something I'd like to rap from.
Posted Jul 27, 2005 1:34 pm

MishaRe: Would it be better...

Misha

Hasn't voted

Somebody placed a bolt next to that piton so it looks a bit better. By the time we came across that anchor, we were downclimb exposed stuff for so long so it did not make a big difference :)
Posted Jul 27, 2005 2:32 pm

Dave KRe: Would it be better...

Dave K

Hasn't voted

Oh yeah...this is a very nice shot!!! :-)
Posted Jul 27, 2005 3:17 pm

MishaRe: Would it be better...

Misha

Hasn't voted

Thanks Dave!
Posted Jul 27, 2005 4:33 pm

MishaRe: Would it be better...

Misha

Hasn't voted

Some of the cracks that we experienced on the way down from the North summit were as hard if not harder than the crack/chimney that you climb from the notch to the North summit (a move or two of 5.7-5.8). Sure they were pretty short but pretty awkward and sometimes overhanging. Not to mention that the landing was far from pretty. I am not trying to discourage anybody, but I think that one needs to be pretty solid on the exposed 5.7-5.8 terrain before following the ridge to the north of the main summit. Rappeling may help somewhat but not all the time.



BTW, it was nice running into you on Pywiack Dome, Jim!
Posted Jul 27, 2005 4:38 pm

MishaRe: Would it be better...

Misha

Hasn't voted

You're old school, Jim and must still be used to old ratings :) I don't doubt that ratings grow over time. For instance, the crack move below the North summit felt marginally harder than the last pitch of Zee Tree, which is rated 5.7. Won't it make it at least 5.7 or is Zee Tree rated incorrectly? If you read a trip report of our own Bob Burd about his last Matthes Crest adventure, he also felt that that pitch was around 5.8. As we were downclimbing from the North summit, I purposefully paused after each sketchy downclimb to assess the difficulty if I have to climb back up. Some of them looked and felt harder than 5.7, at least to me. I can't compare it to old ratings since I was not climbing back then, but I can compare it to newer routes and recently assigned ratings. Either way, it is a moot point. If somebody wants to try it, they should, and make their own observation.



BTW, are bouldery moves with huge fall potentials if you slip still bouldery moves? :)
Posted Jul 27, 2005 5:48 pm

MishaRe: Would it be better...

Misha

Hasn't voted

Zee Tree a 5.9, now that's the idea. I guess that makes me a confident 5.9 trad leader... yay!! :)

Seriously, I see your point and I hope that you see mine. There will always be debates about ratings since they are so subjective. I wonder what others who completed the route think and how they felt about the climb from the ratings perspective.



BTW, I was referring to the crack in the corner and specifically one or two moves right above the ledge; it eases off after that.
Posted Jul 27, 2005 6:23 pm

MishaRe: Would it be better...

Misha

Hasn't voted

Haha... I surrender! Let's say it is 5th class and call it a day :)
Posted Jul 27, 2005 8:28 pm

EManBevHillsYou captured the magik

EManBevHills

Hasn't voted

Fantabulous shot. Just discovered it. Better late than never! BTW, your body of work here on SP is the bomb....

Posted Jun 10, 2008 10:32 pm

Viewing: 1-13 of 13    




Rate This Image
Current Score: 88.19

Log In To Vote
 Matthes Crest (Mountain/Rock)

 The Matthes Crest and the...
« PREV

Viewing
#8 of 126
GALLERY
Dirk on top of the south...
NEXT »

 Misha's Image Gallery

Laurel Mt. peeking through...
« PREV

Viewing
#63 of 876
GALLERY
Bear Creek Spire it all its...
NEXT »


 South to North Traverse (Route)


Image Data
MishaSubmitted by Misha
on Jul 27, 2005 12:07 pm

Image ID: 116967
Hits: 4704 
Lat/Lon: 37.82330°N / 119.3964°W
Object Title: Looking back at the North...