Looking down the Leuthold... : Photos, Diagrams & Topos : SummitPost

Comments

woozler30 - Jan 25, 2005 9:43 pm - Hasn't voted

A+

cool pic. outstanding shot. if you could please email me, or on here.. and fill me in a little on the route. ie. the steepest parts, etc. i do know the route but would like to hear from someone. thanks.. we are planning the climb. next month. i've never done it. woozler32@verizon.net

mt_daydream - Jan 25, 2005 11:08 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: A+

Hi woozler,

I felt that the route was quite sustained at 45 degrees below the hourglass. It eased out a little bit towards the top. We climbed it in a cold day in Dec. We were planning to attempt another route the next day, and hence camped above the ski lifts (but had to retreat due to bad weather the second day). From the place where we camped, it took us about 5.5 - 6 hrs to reach the summit (we moved pretty consistently, and didn't take too many breaks). So, you could attempt it as a day trip too. We climbed with one tool and an ice axe.

We were roped up all along, but simulclimbed most of the route putting pickets/screws in. We used 4 pickets and a couple of screws (you could do without the screws - we used them just because we had them). The steepest portion was two pitches of ~55 degree ice right through the hourglass. My partner belayed me up the first pitch because I had to hand over all the pro to him (he was leading). There was stuff (pieces of snow and ice) coming down the route constantly, and it was the worst right at the hourglass. The gully in the hourglass takes a small deviation towards the left, and we found it ideal to end the first pitch there and put some pro right before that turn (as we were shielded from the stuff coming down). You should be able to identify this spot pretty easily in case you decide to stop there or put a picket.

There was pretty much zero wind once we got inside the couloir. The gusts picked up again on the summit ridge though. The summit ridge was a bit scary as it was really thin in a couple of places.

You might've already seen the pictures about the route that dkantola posted in this thread.

Hope this info helps.

woozler30 - Jan 26, 2005 8:11 am - Hasn't voted

Re: A+

thanks. appreciate it. that helps a lot..!!

PellucidWombat - Mar 9, 2005 5:29 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: A+

Does it matter much if this is done in March or June? I'm looking for a route to climb next weekend, but I wouldn't want something that is bad to do as a late winter climb. I've been doing a lot of winter mountaineering in the Wasatch, but I wouldn't want to get in over my head. Also, apart from falling debris, what is the avalanche hazard??

Brian Jenkins - Mar 9, 2005 5:48 pm - Voted 10/10

Re: A+

Haven't done this route (although I am dying to) but I think late winter is perfect time for this if weather is good and you've had a couple non-snowy days prior to doing it and the freezing level is not too high. Could be avalanche-prone but main problem is ice fall in warm temps. It's a funnel that narrows at the bottom and it'll nail ya. Most years I think it's good til June but this year, who knows? Hoping someone who has climbed this one chimes in. (David? Cluck? Hammer?)

dkantola - Mar 9, 2005 6:58 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: A+

Now is a better time to do it than June. Seems a lot of people climb it despite high freezing levels and rock/icefall, but they're playing Russian Roulette in my opinion. I'd recommend doing most of it in the dark (if you're confident in routefinding) on a day with a freezing level below 7-8000 ft. We've had very little snow this year and our snowpack is much more stable and predictable than in the Rockies. Although if avy hazard is high Leuthold is about the worst place you could be.

PellucidWombat - Mar 10, 2005 10:24 am - Hasn't voted

Re: A+

Thanks for the info! I'll just factor the avvy danger into my go-nogo decision depending on conditions when I get there. Based on the position, orientation, and width of the couloir, I'd imagine that avalanching beginning within the couloir itself is unlikely, but originating on the open slopes above would be the danger? Naturally I'm concerned about such issues since I'm more used to winter travel in the Wasatch!

darinchadwick - Feb 4, 2005 7:04 am - Voted 9/10

Inclusion

Could you please add this photo to the Luethold Coulior route page? Thanks.

mt_daydream - Feb 8, 2005 4:22 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Inclusion

How can I add it to the route page without resubmitting it? Putting a link to this photo will not produce a thumbnail, would it?

Thanks.

darinchadwick - Feb 9, 2005 5:50 am - Voted 9/10

Re: Inclusion

Yeah, I figured it out on my own, thanks to the sp elves, it's actually possible to scroll through more than just the 12 most recent photos. Thanks again for the great shot.

to post!