Park at the newly configured Hidden Valley parking lot. This is not the campground, but the "real" Hidden Valley. Facing the parkinglot is a large jumble of boulders and walls. Skirt this jumble to the left, and keeping walking on the flat desert floor. After about 10 minutes, a large pillar appears, with two bolted routes on it. Loose Lady is the left route. Thread through shady boulders and up to a platform at the base of the route.
The climb begins with two bulges, the first of which is the crux of the climb. If you climb to the second bolt without slipping, then go for the rest of the climb. The bolts are typical for Josh, meaning well spaced. Though there is a bolt in your face on the crux moves, there are several places higher up where a fall would be dreadful. The climbing consists of mostly flake pinching and excellent friction. One of the best bolted climbs for it's grade in the park.
QDs. And slings for the bolt anchor. It's possible to rap with one rope if the rappeler trends to the left (facing the rock). The one rope rappel has a big sticky Yucca at the base, so look down well before landing! It's easier to rappel straight down the face with two ropes.
It's worth mentioning that this is not a sport climb, even though it is protected with bolts. The route was established "back in the day" by trad climbers in traditional style - bolting from stances without aid on lead. This explains the widely spaced bolts, and of course the convenience anchor at the top is recent addition.
Yes, I was careful not to call it a sport climb, only a bolted climb. Thankfully almost all the bolts have been replaced, though when I climbed it there was an old Leeper spinner about halfway up. Don't know if it's still there or not....
We did this route yesterday. I couldn't believe it. A Sunday afternoon, with the most perfect Josh weather possible and there was not another climber around. There were about 5 cars in the real Hidden Valley Lot.
All the bolts look great.
An unintended consequence of the nice new anchor at the top: Puss n Boots seems to be getting a lot of TR traffic, and it's delicate little holds are getting worn down...
Posted Jan 30, 2006 11:03 am
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