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Lost Arrow Tip

 
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Lost Arrow Tip
Range of placements encountered on the Lost Arrow Tip route. Two "C2" placements included. The alien shown is the tiny "purple unit" - note that the two visible lobes are crap - only two of four lobes engage the rock (June 6, 2004).

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Dave DalyOld Pin Scar?

Dave Daly

Voted 10/10

By the Alien placement, it appears that old pin had been there at once. Any chance that a HB Offset Brassie would have worked there? Say a #6?
Posted Jun 10, 2004 4:07 pm

rpcRe: Old Pin Scar?

rpc

Hasn't voted

Sorry - don't know. This was my 2nd "real" aid climb and have not used HB Offsets before....given how crappy that alien placement was, I'd be willing to experiment with something else.
Posted Jun 10, 2004 4:15 pm

yvRe: Old Pin Scar?

Hasn't voted

I climbed the tip recently but didn't make a placement like this. Just off Salathe Ledge there's an old pin with a 3mm cord tied through it and jsut above that theres a thin crack. Is that where you placed the black alien? I reached up and got a good medium nut in a constriction in this crack.



The tip was easy goin' with all those brand new bolts. Aside from a few big cams in the fist/ow, I placed a total of one nut, one medium cam, plus a hook in that big jug at the traverse.
Posted Jun 16, 2004 2:06 pm

Craig PeerRe: Old Pin Scar?

Craig Peer

Hasn't voted

I didn't make this placement either, but of course when I climbed it there were no Aliens!!
Posted Jun 16, 2004 2:32 pm

rpcRe: Old Pin Scar?

rpc

Hasn't voted

my seq. off Salathe:

1 bolt; 1 old pin with 3mm cord; stick clip (long reach) a bolt above; move left onto 1" cam under a flake; place small Alien above (not very far); hook on lip of jug; clip hangerless bolt; clip another hangerless bolt; clip a fixed nut; then mostly bolts and pitons to top with 1 or 2 more gear placements.



Alien placement necessary?? probably not essential if you did not make it. i was not sure how to proceed to reach the hangerless bolt - that that gave me a few upward feet to where I realized I could place a hook.



I'm sure it's very mellow going for others. I was pretty tense as it was my 2nd aid lead.
Posted Jun 16, 2004 2:51 pm

Craig PeerRe: Old Pin Scar?

Craig Peer

Hasn't voted

Pretty damn good for your 2nd aid climb I must say!!
Posted Jun 16, 2004 3:03 pm

rpcRe: Old Pin Scar?

rpc

Hasn't voted

Thanks Craig.

....."tense" should be more like "scared shitless" for the first 30 feet of P2.
Posted Jun 16, 2004 3:05 pm

yvRe: Old Pin Scar?

Hasn't voted

You stick clipped that bolt? Very ingenious! Ax Nelson and Jack Arnold would have been proud. You do know the story behind the first ascent?



I think the sequence for me was bolt, 3mm cord in fixed pin, medium nut, bolt, hook, rivet, rivet, several bolts/rivets, 3/4 Camalot under bulge, bolts. I remember a fixed hammered nut in there somewhere too.



Nice job on your second aid lead! It was my second or third pitch as well back when I first did it and it scared me too! The route has changed some in the last decade. There used to be a lot of mank and 1/4" rivets where there are now 3/8" bolts with hangers. But its still about the same difficulty overall.

Posted Jun 16, 2004 5:46 pm

rpcRe: Old Pin Scar?

rpc

Hasn't voted

"You stick clipped that bolt? Very ingenious! Ax Nelson and Jack Arnold would have been proud."



oh well



"You do know the story behind the first ascent? "



yeah
Posted Jun 16, 2004 6:07 pm

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Image Data
rpcSubmitted by rpc
on Jun 7, 2004 8:17 pm

Image ID: 55934
Hits: 1999 
Lat/Lon: 37.75600°N / 119.593°W
Object Title: Lost Arrow Tip

Image Type(s): Aid Climbing