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Lost Rat Couloir Climber's Log

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chicagotransplantSki descent  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 31, 2014

chicagotransplant

Solo ski descent of Lost Rat Couloir after skinning up standard route. Able to ski off summit pretty much continuously, one short rock band I had to cross. Good conditions, but developing a runnel that you have to watch out for near the bottom.
Posted Jun 1, 2014 9:14 pm

MattKGreat day  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 25, 2011

MattK

Short and sweet. Caught a nice glissade from Grays-Torreys saddle.
Posted May 31, 2013 12:08 pm

belexesLost Rat  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 9, 2012

belexes

Preparation climb for Elbrus trip in August. I climbed with some CMC members who will be heading to Rainier around the 4th of July. There's no snow in the uppermost reaches of the couloir, but there's still a fair amount lower down, though it is mushy and rocky. There was a mountain goat at the top of the couloir.
Posted Jun 9, 2012 4:48 pm

Woodie HopperLost Rat  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 5, 2012

Woodie Hopper

Good conditions- my first CO snow couloir route. Due to warm weather, the top ~100 feet at the top were melted-out, but that wasn't really a problem. Soloed en route to Edwards.
Posted May 5, 2012 11:20 pm

bennersCool Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 19, 2011

benners

Short and sweet, this route is a great way to climb Grays.
Posted Jun 20, 2011 3:09 pm

km_donovanGreat Day  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 22, 2009

km_donovan

A little snow mid morning and saw a few wet slides go off in other parts of the basin when the sun hit. Had a great glissade from the Greys/Torreys saddle. Lots of post holing on the way out.
Posted May 22, 2009 5:51 pm

Mots010Lost Rat  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 22, 2008

Mots010

Fun climb on the second day of summer. About 30ft near the top was melted out.
Posted Jun 23, 2008 12:24 pm

heather14Perfect Day  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 15, 2008

heather14

Weather was great, conditions were perfect, partners were awesome! One of the local residents was even at the top waiting to greet us.
Posted Jun 15, 2008 8:40 pm

Niederbayernice climb
Date Climbed: Jul 3, 2007

Niederbayer

climbed up to Y , but was opting there for the third option (not described) - a narrow, steep and icy ravine going up to the right - shorter than the two other options, but more challenging
Posted Jun 3, 2007 6:35 pm

zachary_dcCrazy Weather  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 23, 2007

zachary_dc

Started out about a mile before the trailhead, where we had been camped for a few days. There was about 3 inches of fresh powder which made things a little interesting. The couloir was a fun climb, definately under rated i think. Cornice wasnt a problem and was easily passible. Summited and descended via Grays-Torreys saddle into at least a 700 ft glissade(sweet). Round trip ~ 8hours. Not less than an hour after we returned to camp it started snowing again, and we ended up leaving a day or 2 early.
Posted May 25, 2007 3:19 pm

Jason KonzakNo walk in the park
Date Climbed: Mar 5, 2006

Jason Konzak

My climbing partner and I selected this route as it seemed like an easier couloir route among the climbs we had considered. Overall snow conditions were excellent and weather was pleasant. Because the road to the trailhead is not maintained in the winter we snowshoed from the Bakersville exit which added to the mileage a bit. We found that the snow was the most stable in the middle of the couloir and the areas that clearly showed wind scouring were the least stable. Most of the trip reports I had seen are from spring so we knew things would be a little different but were surprised by the length and slope of this route. There were some areas that our inclinometer showed as 55 degrees. Exposure was not too bad but given the angle and thick freeze of the snow there were quite a few places where I was worried about the consequences of a fall. It would seem this is a good beginners route but if you're planning a winter ascent know that it is still a significant climb. We downclimbed the same way we came and glissaded the last quarter of the couloir. RT from Bakersville exit was approx 14 hours.
Posted Mar 6, 2006 6:49 pm

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