Some of the easier trad routes in all of Red Rocks can be found down First Creek Canyon via what they call the Romper Room Area (Indecision Peak). The perfect graduation routes for an aspiring trad leader can be found at the mouth of First Creek Canyon on Lotta Balls Wall, its namesake, Lotta Balls, a well protected 3 pitch 5.8 route, and another Urioste classic (and even better route in my opinion) Black Magic, a 4 pitch 5.8 route. All routes that lead to the top of Lotta Balls Wall utilize the same speedy descent down a gully to the east of the wall. This descent requires three short rappels and along with some scrambling returns you right back to the base of the wall so you can complete several routes in the same day. It is best not to rappel the routes themselves as they are quite popular.
Park at the First Creek Canyon trailhead 6.5 miles north of the 159/160 junction (4-5 miles south of the Loop Road entrance). Hike the main trail into the canyon. As it narrows there is an obvious black buttress rising on the left side (Lotta Balls Wall). Pick up a climbers trail that meanders up the left side of the canyon and lands you at the base of this black buttress. The cool alcove to your right is called Mysterious Amphitheater and offers much stouter single pitch routes. The easy Romper Room routes are to the right of that.
The Routes are Listed Left to Right as you Face the Wall
First pitch of Lotta Balls is classic climbing. The 2nd pitch involves trusting sketchy chicken heads (balls)...but you are protected with fixed pro through this section. The 3rd pitch is fun, but mostly scrambling to the top. Better pitches than Frogland by comparison, but not as good as Black Magic. Should be able to do both routes on the same day at a minimum. Dow
Voodoo Doll is a great compliment to the Black Magic and Lotta Balls routes on Lotta Balls Wall. It runs up right between them for two pitches before ending into Black Magic on the right. The first pitch is the best moderate pitch (5.9) on the wall in my opinion. Voodoo Doll is just another of many DeAngelo routes in First Creek Canyon. Dow
Much more entertaining than Lotta Balls I thought. Black Magic has a fantastic 1st and 3rd pitch. The 2nd pitch is long and sustained at 5.6 with hard to place pro at times. That leader needs a little experience if you are switching out. Can run that 3rd pitch out enough to solo the rest and avoid the 4th pitch. Nice views of Mt. Wilson. Dow
These are all trad lines with an assortment of fixed pro here and there. They all will require an assortment of gear as spelled out in Jerry’s Handren’s “Red Rocks, A Climbers Guide”. Any routes that reach the top require three short rappels (single rope) down the gully to the east. Lotta Balls Wall is north facing thus I recommend warm clothes during the winter and fall months.
""You cannot stay on the summit forever; you have to come down again. So why bother in the first place? Just this: What is above knows what is below, but what is below does not know what is above. One climbs, one sees. One descends, one sees no longer, but one has seen. There is an art of conducting oneself in the lower regions by the memory of what one saw higher up. When one can no longer see, one can at least still know.""