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Lugauer
Mountain/Rock

Lugauer

 
Lugauer

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Austria, Europe

Lat/Lon: 47.55333°N / 14.72250°E

Object Title: Lugauer

Activities: Hiking, Mountaineering, Trad Climbing, Scrambling, Skiing

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter

Elevation: 7274 ft / 2217 m

 

Page By: dedo

Created/Edited: May 1, 2006 / Apr 16, 2008

Object ID: 191439

Hits: 5401 

Page Score: 84.68%  - 19 Votes 

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Overview

Comparing Lugauer even to the most famous Alpine peaks would make no sense, as it pretty well stands out on its own. In Gesäuse, which itself is rich on prominent peaks, it is one of the most spectacular, the most photographed and probably even the most beautiful one. Lugauer is an impressive mountain from any side you look at it. The rocky south and east face ranges 1500m over Radmertal, the 700m west flank is a dream of every skier and from the north there are yet some more distinct forms.

Some rock climbs, short and long, lead through the south, west and north faces. The difficulties vary from UIAA 2 to 4, but the rock quality is not the best of the area, the climbing is not sustained and protection poor. By far most people reach the top with ski. On sunny days there are many of them here despite the long ascents.

As a part of Gesäuse, the central Ennstal Alps, Lugauer belongs to the Nationalpark Gesäuse, thanks to the unique landscape. Any path you take, you are accompanied by eye-catching and breath-taking views from the first minute on. Lugauer is not the only popular ski touring destination here: Gsuchmauer, Leobner and Festkogel are only some more of those climbed from Johnsbach.

Getting There

 
Lugauer from Haselkogel
 

The starting points are most often Johnsbach in the west, Hartelsbrücke in the north, or Radmer an der Stube in the south.
  • From north-west: Take the Pyhrn-highway (toll), exit at Admont and continue to the respective towns.
  • From north-east: Exit the A1 at Amstetten, drive over Hieflau to your base.
  • From south: Exit the S6 at Leoben and drive over Eisenerz, or exit at Trieben and drive over Admont.

The train and bus connections to Johnsbach, Admont and Hieflau are surprisingly good. You can find the plans at oebb.at.

Routes overview

 
On the summit ridge of Lugauer
 
All the routes here, unless noted, lead to the higher south-west peak.
  1. From south - Radmer an der Hasel over Gspitzter Stein. Sometimes done with ski, which mostly are carried to Gspitzter Stein. Shortest ascent, marked, easy, 1300m, 4h
  2. From west - Johnsbach over Hüpflingerhals, mostly with ski. Start follow the marked forest roads to Gscheideggkogel, go by the Ebneralm, Schröckalm. Head north then east to Hüpflingerhals. Flat downhill to Hüpflingeralm and Haselkaralm, then ascend over Lugauerplan. Easy (or places UIAA II on the lower direct SW-ridge), partially marked. 1400m, 5h. The former path over Haselkogel is now closed, please see the Red Tape section.
  3. From north - Ennstal - Hartelsbrücke, over Hartelsgraben and either Haselkar and Lugauerplan (with ski, not marked) or over the NW-flank to the north-east peak (marked). 1600m, easy, 5-6h
  4. From north-east - Hieflau over Waaggraben and Goldecksattel to the north-east peak. Easy, 1700m, 5.5h
  5. From east - Radmer an der Stube over Kammerl and NW-flank. Joins the Hieflau route in Polstersattel. Marked, easy, 1500m, 4.5h.
  6. Transition from the south-west (2217m) to the north-east peak (2206m). Partly secured with a 25m steel cord, exposed rock climbing, UIAA I, 0.5h.

Red Tape

Lugauer is situated in the Nationalpark Gesäuse. Sleeping in a tent outside of camping sites is prohibited in the whole area.

New: The area around Hüpflingerhals - Fürstensitz (around Haselkogel) and also the steep downhill descend to Lugauerplan (via Fürstenplan) is a biotope of Wood Grouse and Black Grouse and closed for all mountaineers.
A marked winter trail has been setup via Hüpflingeralm - Wagriedlschlag - Haselkaralm to Lugauerplan. Thanks to Dojo for this information.

Accomodation

  • Xeis.at lists accomodation for all the towns in Gesäuse, including a camping site in Gstatterboden. The most popular base for Lugauer is probably Johnsbach.

Maps and Guides

 
Final part of the SW-ridge
 
Maps
  • Alpenvereinskarte 16 Gesäuse
  • Freytag & Bernd WK 062

Guides
  • Willi End: Ennstaler Alpen - Gesäuse, Alpenvereinsführer
  • Kurt Schall: Schitourenatlas Österreich Ost
  • Bergverlag Rother: Gesäuse-Auswahlführer
  • On the web, you can see a detailed map on: http://www.austrianmap.at/.

Images