Hiked 8 miles into Lyell Canyon & summited the next day. Great weather, didn't need crampons on the glacier. Key was going to the right of the buttress. We ran into a party who summited via the arete the day before and claimed they ran into a 5.6 crack on the way up. We didn't see anything beyond class 4 (cf. Secor).
"Got tight last night on absinthe and did knife tricks. Great success shooting the knife into the piano. The woodworms are so bad and eat hell out of all furniture that you can always claim the woodworms did it."