Hiked 8 miles into Lyell Canyon & summited the next day. Great weather, didn't need crampons on the glacier. Key was going to the right of the buttress. We ran into a party who summited via the arete the day before and claimed they ran into a 5.6 crack on the way up. We didn't see anything beyond class 4 (cf. Secor).
"So I was sitting in my cubicle today, and I realized, ever since I started working, every single day of my life has been worse than the day before it. So that means that every single day that you see me, that's on the worst day of my life."
--Peter Gibbons (Office Space)