Hiked 8 miles into Lyell Canyon & summited the next day. Great weather, didn't need crampons on the glacier. Key was going to the right of the buttress. We ran into a party who summited via the arete the day before and claimed they ran into a 5.6 crack on the way up. We didn't see anything beyond class 4 (cf. Secor).
"As an adolescent I aspired to lasting fame, I craved factual certainty, and I thirsted for a meaningful vision of human life - so I became a scientist. This is like becoming an archbishop so you can meet girls."