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mulidivareseLyskamm east: the 30th  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 19, 2007


and then it was the time for the Lyskamm east
Planned for so many years.....
The weather during the last ten days of this 2007 august was very unstable. The forecast just gave us a chanche of clear weather for about 12 hours between saturday and sunday. We left Gnifetti hut at 5:10. At 8:10 we reached the summit by the east-ridge. At 10 we were back to Gnifetti just before the weather turned very bad. At 9 the lyskamm was already totally kept by clouds.
Wonderfull, knife edged, aesthetic ridge. A step into the sky.
and it was mine 30th fourthausant summit of alp.

Valerio e Marco
Posted Aug 20, 2007 1:49 am

becquerelEast ridge to east peak ....
Date Climbed: Aug 16, 2007


Wonderful ridge ! But it was too windy and cloudy that day, so we had to give up. Doesn't matter .... I am looking forward to next attempt :-)
Posted Aug 19, 2007 6:09 pm

BorRoute climbed: West approach from Quintino Sella hut
Date Climbed: Jul 21, 2007


We tried to reach the west summit from Quintino Sella hut but we were not on the top because of the too strong wind and because of blisters. :)
Posted Jul 22, 2007 1:24 pm

GriffithsWest-East Traverse  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 27, 2005


Absolutely perfect weather, wonderful day of climbing
Posted Jun 5, 2007 7:16 am

BritetteE to W Traverse  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 18, 1996


Climbed the SW arete from Felikjoch and Castor. Traversed E to W and descended the E arete. The sun was rising as we reached the W summit. Incredibly beautiful. Traversing in the dark was good because I couldn't see how far the drop was. Exposure was huge as we weaved our way along the cornice.
Posted May 25, 2007 2:27 pm

erik_ravenstijnOne of my biggest dreams  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 22, 2006


This was a dream come true: traversing one of the most beautiful ridges in the Alps: the Lyskamm ridge. Tears almost start rolling when writing this. You can check some photos at: www.climbingtours.net.
Posted Oct 7, 2006 8:34 pm

p-mikeWest Lyskamm from Q.Sella  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 18, 1996


My first 4000er..wonderful!!
Posted Mar 15, 2006 11:57 am

hanswFrom Felickjoch to Lyskamm W  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 26, 2000


"The only problem will be the wind", said Freddy when we started from the hut with the intention to traverse the Liskamm from west to east. And he was right. The wind was so hard that we almost couldn't move on the summit ridge. There was nothing to do but to turn back at the west summit. Exciting tour. (July 26, 2000).
Posted Mar 10, 2006 9:08 pm

connectRoute Climbed: E ridge Date Climbed: july 1994  Sucess!


leaving from the queue ascending towards Margherita refuge was a great relief...

The route is not particularly difficult but we encountered a lot of massif cornices. During the descent the weather changed and find the right way was difficult (due to the cornices, undistinguishable from the sky).

Posted Jan 23, 2006 5:21 am

bbirtleRoute Climbed: Klucker-Neruda NE Face Date Climbed: Aug 13, 2005  Sucess!


Took us 11 hours in an epic struggle due to horrible ice conditions and powder-covered rock conditions. 19.5 hours from our bivy site above Monte Rosa Hut to the summit and back! AWESOME!
Posted Aug 15, 2005 8:05 am

bradeRoute Climbed: Normal from Balmenhorn Date Climbed: 29 July 2005  Sucess!


Solo. After the night at Balmenhorn and Piramide Vincent in the morning i did it solo. Airy ridge was difficult for me because of strong wind. No visibility during descent (strong sun and fog made me blind despite sunglasses). Descen to the Monte Rosa Htt.
Posted Aug 8, 2005 1:59 pm

mulidivareseRoute Climbed: Normal from Felickjoch to Lyskamm W Date Climbed: 25th July 2005


Very bad weather.
Stormy, foggy and windy.
Ice all around.
Easy, but with this condiction too dangerous
Valerio and Daniele
Posted Jul 28, 2005 3:56 am

ColoradoSonyaRoute Climbed: traverse west-east Date Climbed: June 30 2004  Sucess!


climbed with howie and klaus. lots of fun!
Posted Sep 17, 2004 12:57 am

hhsilleckRoute Climbed: traverse west - east Date Climbed: June 30 2004  Sucess!


Scary exposure on both sides of the ridge, but the climbing was fun and enjoyable! The initial section downclimbing off the west summit was a rush. Climbed with my fiancee Sonya and our guide Klaus Tsherrig (who was great - fun, friendly, and highly skilled) - a highlight of our six week "engagement-moon".
Posted Sep 13, 2004 5:16 pm

flearretaRoute Climbed: Traverse West-East Date Climbed: August 29, 2004  Sucess!


A long day starting in the Quintino Sella hut at 6AM and ending atop the Marguerita Hut in the summit of Signalkuppe at 3PM. Took us 2 hours from Sella hut to Felikjoch and then an addtional 3 hours to complete the whole Lyskamm traverse up to the Lisjoch. From there, 1 hour to the summit of Ludwighohe, another hour to the summit of Parrotspitze and additional 1.5 hour to the top of Signalkuppe. Then a good night sleep at 4560 meters in the Marguerita hut ;).
Posted Sep 8, 2004 1:15 pm

andrea.itRoute Climbed: west Lyskamm from Q.Sella Date Climbed: august 2002  Sucess!


Climbed twice in two days,waiting for good weather.No ways....
Posted May 12, 2004 9:56 am

andrea.itRoute Climbed: traverse from west to east Date Climbed: july 2003  Sucess!


Solo traverse,no partners.Beautiful day,no wind no clouds.I think easyer than many people supposed.Just a secure footstep is required.May be from east to west is better than what i did.
Posted May 10, 2004 1:45 pm

fabriziorRoute Climbed: Traverse from W to E Date Climbed: August 1968  Sucess!


Very impressive and long traverse: the horizontal snowy/icy ridge is very sharp, smaller than mountaineering boot, it's only question of equilibrium, you have nothing to hold...difficult belay.
Posted Oct 1, 2003 4:43 pm

Samuli MansikkaRoute Climbed: South west ridge Date Climbed: 13th august 2003  Sucess!

Samuli Mansikka

Earlier in the morning we climbed the Castor and decided to attempt the Lyskamm with the same effort.

A huge mountain compared to the twins and the route offerede some fine walking on top of the knife-sharp ridge.
Posted Aug 31, 2003 1:57 pm

FarmerRoute Climbed: N-face of the E-summit Neruda Klucker Date Climbed: aug 98  Sucess!


After a short sleep about 1h? we left from bivacco Farmero (read: sleepingbag on rock 1h above monte rosa hut). The route towards the face is very frightning when dark and foggy. Wild landscape!!!

When reaching the face you see huuuuuuuuuuuuge block of ice all around you. At the time the seracs were not so active, but best is to make some hurry the first 300hm. When we reached the rocks it seemed safe. Good conditions made it no problemo to reach the summit. Tricky descent of the E-ridge to the highest hut in the Alps, Rif.Margeritha on the Punkta Gniffeti. Day after we descended over the Zumsteinspitze and Dufour back to Zermatt. Excellent tour....
Posted Oct 5, 2002 1:45 am

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