Route Climbed: ridge traverse from W to E Date Climbed: July 29th 2003
For me this was my most impressive and most difficult tour in snow terrain: We started at Quintino Sella hut and climbed the W-summit. It was more icy than usual so all parties climbed the rocks of the W-summit, not the ice. The traverse to the E-summit was in good conditions - almost no ice, the rocky parts easy and free of snow. There were no big corniches - as often described - but that means that the footprints of the route were very often at the very top of a sharp snow ridge, so I felt like a tightrope walker. One mistake of me or my two fellows could end fatal. The descent from E-summit to the Lysjoch was equal. Finally the big track down to Gnifetti hut was a big relief.
Route Climbed: N-face of the E-summit Neruda Klucker Date Climbed: aug 98
After a short sleep about 1h? we left from bivacco Farmero (read: sleepingbag on rock 1h above monte rosa hut). The route towards the face is very frightning when dark and foggy. Wild landscape!!!
When reaching the face you see huuuuuuuuuuuuge block of ice all around you. At the time the seracs were not so active, but best is to make some hurry the first 300hm. When we reached the rocks it seemed safe. Good conditions made it no problemo to reach the summit. Tricky descent of the E-ridge to the highest hut in the Alps, Rif.Margeritha on the Punkta Gniffeti. Day after we descended over the Zumsteinspitze and Dufour back to Zermatt. Excellent tour....