Main summit of Mt. Waddington from NW summit

We did the NW summit first and then descended to gully between the main tower and the Tooth. We got halfway up the main tower and a instantaneous storm hit with horizontal rain and snow. We quickly retreated and every time we threw the ropes down they went completely horizontal and because of the nature of the rock we had the rope snag everytime we used two ropes. The last time we could not pull it free and had to cut the rope so from then on we rapped with a single rope. As I coiled up the rope I noticed a huge cut from rock or ice fall. When we finally made it to the base of the tower we spent 2 hours digging a snow cave as the storm got worse and worse sometimes lifting us off are feet and almost blowing us away. We spent the night there and in the morning it was clear but very windy and since no sleeping bags=no sleep we were pretty tired.We were going to bale at that point but my partner,Mary Prendergast with the indomitable Irish spirit would have nothing of it. So off we went to summit the Wadd in improving weather but I still remember being pretty wasted.