Marchesa

Getting to Indian Cove

Southern California- US Interstate 10 and CA HWY 62 near Desert Hot Springs,
Follow HWY 62 to Joshua Tree and turn Right or South on Indian Cove Road. Continue South past the Ranger Station to the entrance to the Indian Cove Campground. Turn Left at the fork and continue past the Billboard Rock on your immediate Left and park wherever there is room.

Feudal Wall Group

Tucked between the Short Wall to the South and the Indian Corridors to the North, the Feudal Wall sits in between with numerous routes all over ranging from easy to very hard. 'Marchesa' sits near the far Right or East end of the Feudal Wall, with two blocky pillars marking the start of the route, on the back side of a campsite nearby.

There will be two obvious crack systems. The Right will be Marchesa 5.2, and to the Left is Court Jester 5.7

Route Description

Start up the Right crack up fun blocky holds or the crack itself(Easy 5th). Some scratchy jamming and foot camming (5.2+)in the crack brings you up to a small ledge system. I would advise to put in protection when you can, due to some sections where pro is hard to find, then hard to place. For these reasons, I was told by a local, this route is often free soloed.

Continue up the crack to another small ledge before the route turns up and to the right over a very short headwall (5.2). Climb up and to the left back to the wall at a nice belay ledge. There is a great crack where the route continues, and you can build a anchor in this crack for a belay.

Apparently, the second pitch is seldom done due to poor rock quality and a more difficult descent, according to a J-Tree local.

Walk off is to the right of the route from the belay ledge looking down the route. Follow a climbers trail (3rd class downclimbing in spots) down and around to the bottom of the Feudal Wall, spitting you out West of the campgrounds where the route starts.

Essential Gear

-50 or 60m rope
-Gear thin to 4', some fist size cams and smaller for the belay
-5 medium slings, 5 long slings
-a couple of medium sized nuts, hard to find places for them however
-Anchor Setup, you will build yourself in a solid crack at the ledge
-6 extra carabiners or quickdraws

Red Tape

Indian Cove entrance is currently free. Please do not park in occupied campgrounds and be respectful to those campsites you may walk thru or climb in. A simple hello and letting them know your plans will keep it nice and civil for everyone. Remember that most of the climbs and parking at Indian Cove are in or around campsites.

There are several bathrooms scattered around the area as well as trash and recycling stations. Please use them!

First Ascent

FA Unknown. If you have any information about the FA please PM me.

Images

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