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Marmolada-Punta Penia Climber's Log

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alpinbetaUp Via Ferrata-Descent on Normal Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 4, 2012

alpinbeta

Via ferrata on the West ridge and descended down the glacier to Fedaia
Posted Sep 2, 2014 4:23 pm

summitboyNormal Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 18, 2014

summitboy

South Ridge "normal route" from Rif. Fiacconi (top of Seggiovia loft) via the glacier, with one crevasse crossing, a short VF2 (Not mentioned in the Cicerone guide), then snow ridge to Punta Penia. Great weather, with bright sunshine, +10C and views forever. Technically easy in summer, but still requires full equipment for safety. Other may think this a trivial route but, this was the highlight of my week long holiday hiking and VF'ing in the Dolomites.
Posted Jul 27, 2014 9:23 am

cezartrMarmolada / Punta Penia  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 28, 2013

cezartr

Together with Iza, Krisztian and Péter we had a great time on this climb although we started really late thanks to an anticyclone that allowed us not to worry about the weather. Amazing view from the top. Brilliant!
Posted Jun 14, 2014 6:55 am

faginWest ridge via ferrata  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 10, 2013

fagin

Had heard that the via ferrata was pretty hard and exposed but it turned out to be disappointingly straightforward. Hut at the summit was closed and views were hazy in the extreme. Loved my time in the Dolomites but this was no highlight
Posted Aug 17, 2013 5:53 am

Rafa BartolomeWooooooowwwwwww!!!!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 19, 2011

Rafa Bartolome

Marmolada was a very special mountain. We climbed across the pretty via ferrata (west) crossing the small glacier with crampons (it had some ice). We descended across the normal route using rope in the glacier because it had a crevasse near of the area of the descent from the summit. It was a day to remember for a long time.
Posted Aug 24, 2011 12:37 pm

AvantaRWest Ridge route  Sucess!
Quite beautiful but crowded route.
Posted Apr 15, 2011 6:00 pm

jckTwice  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 7, 2010

jck

Hans-Seyffert Weg - June 2012.
Nice and easy via-ferrata. Offers great views to the South. Short, 4,5 hours round trip from the upper station of the cable-car.

North face - August 2010.
Nice route, bit complicated. Finished the face exact at the point where the normal route exits the cables at Schena de Mul.
No views from the top at all.

Descended by the normal route.

Trip with Ania (Mooliczek) and Igor (Igi).
Posted Aug 11, 2010 4:47 pm

mooliczekNorth face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 7, 2010

mooliczek

Very pretty line and absolutely enjoyable, fast climbing.
More demanding if the snow conditions are poor (like we had).
North face offers many options to take. Especially, it gets a bit complicated (if it comes to the routefinding) when there isn't much snow on it (like we had).
We did the "rocky" part mostly on the left side of the face. Many rocks uncovered formed unexpected obstacles, but manageable. The quality of rock itself is horrbile there, so in fact most of our rock set gear was useless.

But overall - great trip, great company, great climbing!

Done with Igi and Jck.

More photos and trip report (in Polish) here.
Posted Aug 9, 2010 6:03 am

rentschlAliuminum Crampons on Punta Penia Route?
Just curious to see what others who have done the Punta Penia route from rifugio Fiacconi would think about using aluminum crampons on this route. I'm looking to save weight but I'm not sure this would make sense. I'll be over in August so the via ferrate section should be free of ice/snow normally. But it sounds like there could be verglas on it depending upon the weather leading up to the climb.

I'm coming from the states so I was thinking of just bringing both steel and aluminum crampons and then deciding once I'm over there.

Any comments appreciated.

-Eric
Posted Aug 8, 2010 10:06 am

BrankoRoute Climbed: Normal route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 26, 2009

Branko

My first time on Marmolada.

Have climbed Punta Penia using the normal glacier route up and down. Perfect weather conditions with spectacular views!
Posted Aug 25, 2009 5:24 am

Mountain_girlFerrata route from Fedaia pass and Rif.Falier  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 10, 2006

Mountain_girl

I climbed to the peak via ferrata twice. Once I approached it from the North from Lago di Fedaia: a beautiful ascent with views of the Sella and other groups. Before, also in the summer, I hiked up from Malga Ciapela through Rif. Falier and approached it close to the impressive southern walls. This route was longer and more lonely with almost no snow. Both are unforgettable and beautiful routes and the almost 2h ferrata to the top is amazing. Quite exposed at times but very well secured. Even in fog it was possible to navigate and reach the peak easily.
Posted Aug 9, 2009 12:06 pm

andyg2Normal route   Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 15, 2002

andyg2

First glacier !.....massive storm on top, so we ate polenta and drank grappa until it passed.
Posted Jul 23, 2009 11:15 am

Ivonaascent in winter conditions  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 28, 2009

Ivona

via normal way.Steel rope above the glacier partly under snow...No people on the route.Unforgetable views!
Climbed with my climbing friend Natalia and Radek (Brade)
Posted Jun 2, 2009 6:52 pm

bradeTwo times: Normal (2009), Normal-Solo (2008)  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 28, 2009

brade

Normal- 28 May 2009
climbed with Natalia and Ivona. Snow conditions good only before sunrise. Descent by rappels along the same route.

Normal- 28 Aug 2008, Solo
5 hours roundtrip from parking, not using cablecar. I was first to the summit that day. Nasty glacier :/ and perfect weather.
Posted Oct 10, 2008 11:58 am

damgaardNormal route + VF route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 22, 2008

damgaard

Climbed Marmolada on the 22. using the normal glacier route up and down (wind was too strong for the via ferrata route). rdeached the top in three hours. Down again in 1,5 h.
Climbed again on the 24th, via ferrate up and glacier down (though not much glacier left). The Via ferrata route is not that difficult and much less crowded. Very nice mountain indeed.
Posted Aug 5, 2008 1:51 am

SlamerPunta Penia  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 18, 2007

Slamer

We went both up and down through the glacier. The weather wasn't very good, but you can't have it always, can you???
Was a pity, that the next day the weather was really nice.
Posted Mar 31, 2008 7:29 pm

Martina MarmoškaMY BELOVED MOUNTAIN  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 10, 2007

Martina Marmoška

Ferrata Cresta Ovest - West ridge. Wonderful summit with great south wall. Photo -panorama of South wall is in my Image.
In 2006 we reached the Punta Serauta by the Ferrata ETERNA - also very nice route.
Posted Feb 18, 2008 3:14 pm

alpspitzeVia Ferrata up-normal way down.  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 9, 1997

alpspitze

This is one fine mountain. With Werner Oechsle from Kirchheim Germany.
Posted Sep 25, 2007 11:58 am

paolo.broggiPunta Penia  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 8, 2000

paolo.broggi

Two time I have reached the Queen of Dolomites
The second time with my future wife Lella
Pian dei Fiaconi - Forcella Marmolada - West ridge ferrata - Descent on normal route of glacier.
I love this mountain !!!
Posted Nov 9, 2006 12:58 pm

schmid_thTop of the Dolomites  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 18, 2001

schmid_th

I reached the top by ascending the via ferrata in the west ridge and descended down the glacier.
Posted Sep 5, 2006 2:23 pm

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