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Marmot Ridge

Marmot Ridge


Page Type: Route

Location: California, United States, North America

Object Title: Marmot Ridge

Route Type: Technical Rock Climb

Time Required: Half a day

Difficulty: III 5.5

Route Quality: 
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Page By: Steve Mackay

Created/Edited: May 18, 2005 / May 18, 2005

Object ID: 165106

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From Tuolumne Meadows Campground head west on Tioga Road (Highway 120) to the pullout for the interpretive signs at the west end of Tuolumne Meadows. This spot is across the road from the east end of The Marmot (the small dome at the east end of Fairview's long east ridge). Cross the road, then hike uphill for 0.4 mile to the ridgecrest. Start where you can see a pair of parallel cracks angling up and left across a very low-angle slab.

Route Description

Climb the slab, then continue up a glacial-polished ramp on the upper north side of The Marmot until stopped by an arch. Move up and left, then mantle over and belay under what appears to be a large, detached boulder, but which is actually the end of a thick flake. Pass through the notch up and left of this "boulder," then top out on the ridge. Walk along the ridge for 0.5 mile to Fairview, keeping close enough to the crest to look down the north side. When you reach Fairview, climb onto a ledge that slants up and right past a small tree and around a corner (this is not as easy as it would appear at first). Follow the ledge, then climb three more leads up the right side of a hollow to a "diving board." Two mantles put you on the summit.

Essential Gear

Minimal gear needed for this 7-pitch journey: 165-foot rope, 5 - 6 nuts to 1 1/2", 4 runners. You can walk off the southeast side of Fairview, so no need for rappel gear.

Miscellaneous Info

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