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Page Type: Route

Location: Chamonix, France, Europe

Lat/Lon: 45.86540°N / 6.89680°E

Object Title: Marylene

Route Type: Technical rock via glacier approach

Time Required: Most of a day

Difficulty: UIAA V+

Route Quality: 
 - 1 Votes


Page By: clarity

Created/Edited: Sep 12, 2004 / Sep 12, 2004

Object ID: 162132

Hits: 3468 

Page Score: 72.08%  - 2 Votes 

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Follow the directions for Approach on the Main Page to the SE face of Pointe Lachenal. Care should be taken as with all glacier passages.

Route Description

220 meters; the start of this climb begins 20 meters above the bergschrund at the base of a sharp rib of rock that is surrounded by ice on three sides. To get to the start, cross the bergschrund near the shoulder of the SE face and then traverse left on this upper portion of ice above the bergschrund 25 meters to the rock arete. In Lindsay Griffin's Mont Blanc Massif Vol.1 guide book, it states that "essential protection in situ." We only had time to climb 30 meters above the rock start and found only one piton 10 meters higher than where we had to stop. There were a few tattered rappel slings at two different heights near the base of the rock start and now a new third sling 30 meters up, otherwise did not see any in situ protection.

I would like to hear additional info from others who have climbed this route to incorporate here and because I plan on going back to complete the climb.

Essential Gear

glacier approach gear
two 50 meter ropes
rappel device
selection of small cams, nuts

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.


Jerone making the traverse,...View from the top . . .Climbing Voie Marylene . . .