Matterhorn - Monte Cervino Climber's Log
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|alexclimb||Route Climbed: Lion Ridge Date Climbed: 22 September, 2005|
|Tried the route in a beautiful day after some days of heavy snowfalls. There were no problems until Capanna di Carrel, and on the next morning we started very early (4 a.m.) and in the bright moonshine very quickly did the part of the route up to the Grand Corda. But after climbing it we found that the opposite side of the ridge by which we were supposed to climb Tindal was covered by thick and soft snow. This snow stopped our advance and after some hesitation we decided to come back, because it was really dangerous to continue the climb in such condition. It was a pity, as the weather was just unbelievable! Very warm, quite and clear.|
|Posted Nov 20, 2005 12:50 pm|
|edl||Route Climbed: Hornligrat Date Climbed: Aug. 2005|
|Posted Sep 29, 2005 6:29 pm|
|bruno baschung||Route Climbed: traverse Date Climbed: 23 august 1989|
|sorry, I just correct the date of my climb (1989 and not 1990)!|
Climbed with G. IMBERT
|Posted Sep 9, 2005 6:23 am|
|bruno baschung||Route Climbed: lion grat descent on Hörnli Date Climbed: 23 august 1990|
|a mountain where you really feel isolated on the top, unlike mount blanc... quite strange.|
the descent on the Hörnli is quite long, nearly as long as climbing it up, and in my view, the good solution is to make the traverse. Quite logical, beautiful, and enable to think about history and the Whymper-Carrel challenge...
|Posted Sep 9, 2005 6:17 am|
|bbirtle||Route Climbed: Hornli Ridge Date Climbed: Sept 1, 2005|
|Fine weather, very little route-finding problems, decent conditions made for a great climb. Watching another climber on the way up fall 600ft to his death led the climb to a sad mood all around though. A scary looking mountain that should be treated with extreme care, but MUST be climbed...|
|Posted Sep 4, 2005 9:34 am|
|markradford||Route Climbed: Hornli Date Climbed: 28th July 2005|
|First attempt at the mountain, and was lucky to get a great break in some variable weather that week. Route was clear and not as busy as I expected. Lots of folk had turned round at the solvay so not a busy descent. Left at 4am, topped out at 8am, and back down by 12.|
|Posted Sep 3, 2005 10:12 am|
|John Cherry||Route Climbed: Hornli ridge Date Climbed: September 4, 2004|
|Left the Hornli Hut a little after 4:30 and climbed the ridge solo in 3:50, topping out in strong winds and clear skies. Descended in about the same time, rappeling the slabs around the Solvay hut with the rope I carried. I cannot overstate the importance of scouting the lower parts of the route in daylight before a climb. There were some very lost parties doing crazy things in the dark that morning.|
Having been turned back in mid August by collapsing weather it was very cool to complete the ascent on my second attempt.
|Posted Aug 7, 2005 6:22 am|
|Tom Fralich||Route Climbed: Hornli Ridge (solo) Date Climbed: June 28, 2005|
|Left the Hornli Hut at 4AM and reached the summit just before 8AM in strong wind and clear skies. The route was in very good condition and there were only about 15 people climbing, so I was able to move quickly (no issues with bottlenecking or rockfall). I scouted the first hour of the route the day before, so there were no routefinding issues in the dark. I actually had more routefinding problems on the descent, which took about 4.5 hours. When I left for the Alps this year, I hoped that I would get a chance to climb the Matterhorn. I didn't expect that I would climb it solo though, but it just turned out that way.|
|Posted Jun 28, 2005 11:14 am|
|Cautious||Route Climbed: Hornli Ridge Date Climbed: Aug 92, Aug 94, Jul 99|
|Weather bad the first time so we were four of only five to reach the summit that day. Long day. Very crowded on other ascents.|
|Posted Jun 23, 2005 10:04 am|
|alexclimb||Route Climbed: Zmuttgrat Date Climbed: 22 July 2004|
|Nobody on the route, unbelievable! Clear sky and moderate cold. Perfrct climb. Did the summit and returned to the Carrel hut in 10 hours. Very beautiful route|
|Posted Jun 7, 2005 11:41 am|
|GlennMerrill||Route Climbed: Hornli Ridge Date Climbed: Aug. 2003|
|Good climb. Very crowded, but it was to do it at least once.|
|Posted Feb 27, 2005 7:44 pm|
|plume||Route Climbed: Hornli Date Climbed: July 1999|
|Brother and I were beaten down by storm just below the Solvay Hut. What a splendid mountain though. Deserves a second go. Or third for that matter.|
|Posted Feb 10, 2005 2:55 pm|
|JanG||Route Climbed: Hornligrat Date Climbed: Aug. 10, 2004|
|It was a life-long dream to climb this dramatic pyramid. It took me years of preparation and delays before I reached the summit in the company of my 2 sons (more details in Trip Report).|
|Posted Nov 19, 2004 8:57 pm|
|noah||Route Climbed: Hornligrat Date Climbed: sept 29th 2004|
|Had no intention of going for the summit, just a bit of a recon' trip. Climbed the first two pitches. found the route in a lite covering of snow. Worth doing so if i go back i now know the section that i will be doing in the dark.|
|Posted Oct 18, 2004 5:22 am|
|joel1973||Route Climbed: Hörnligrat Date Climbed: June 16 2004|
|Retreat on 4000m, bad incoming weather.|
|Posted Oct 16, 2004 5:39 am|
|BODYSCULPTUK||Route Climbed: Hörnligrat Date Climbed: 09 september 2004|
|a wonderful weather(0 degre celsius at 4500m)|
We started from the Hornli hut at 4.45 am and reached the summit at 8.15.
I juste struggled a lit a bit at the end of the fixed ropes section leading to the summit snow slope:
The is a mobile ladder you have to hold from one hand and at the same time getting with the other a rope to lift you to the last terrasse.
My timing was wrong and i needed 3 trials!
That left me without strength in my forearms.
I realised then the route is very difficult to find and that you could easily get lost on the east face which could be fatal.
Indeed i witnessed a huge rocks fall on the east face and was told it is not unusual.
I needed 3 hours to climb down as you have to be very careful and keep your full concentration.
What a great experience!
|Posted Sep 10, 2004 6:21 am|
|LS||Route Climbed: hoernli ridge Date Climbed: 8-Aug-2003|
|A very crowded but still enjoyable route. Only 3,5 hours up, but more than 4 hours down again because of the crowds heading up. Secondly we had some minor routefinding problems on the east face as well (wasted 15 minutes)|
Pictures and trip report on my website:
|Posted Jun 26, 2004 8:57 pm|
|George66||Route Climbed: North Face classic Date Climbed: 1-Aug-1990|
|started 1:45 in Hörnli hut and reached the summit 19:45, then went down to solvay where we rested till morning|
conditions: not bad, a bit to warm, a lot of rocks coming down from Hörnligrat
|Posted Jan 21, 2004 7:10 am|
|repelmen||Route Climbed: hornli ridge Date Climbed: 13,10,85|
|climbed n/e ridge with swiss guide rolf regli on a beautiful friday 13 in sept,85 .had my official summit certificate signed by edmund petrig.|
|Posted Jan 19, 2004 11:59 am|
|Nyle Walton||Route Climbed: Hornli Ridge Date Climbed: August 3, 1955|
| On leave from my army post in Rochefort-sur-mer, France, I took trains to Zermatt and hired a guide called Emil Julen. Emil had been recommended to me by my older brother who met him a year earlier when he was on leave from the army in Germany. The weather was overcast when I hiked up to the Schwartzsee Hotel where Emil was waiting for me. We shook hands and proceeded to hike up to the Belvedere hotel/hut just under the Matterhorn pyramid still lost in the cloudy overcast. Since my arrival in Zermatt I had yet to catch sight of the fabled peak rising immediately above us. We had supper and then I bedded down for the night under a big down quilt. I did not sleep well, worrying about the awesome undertaking I was to face the next day. |
Emil roused me out of bed at four am. After a hot breakfast, he led me up to the base of the Matterhorn pyramid which loomed sharply and darkly against a starry sky. We roped up and began a steep ascent on the Hornli Ridge. Emil instructed me to follow his foot steps and to "walk on eggs." The next four hours were sheer terror as I had a hard time realizing where I was and what I was doing. Above the Salvoy Hut, we caught up with a Stanford coed and her guide. I suffered masculine humiliation when this woman advised me on how to climb and cautioned me not to lean in toward the rockface. However as the sun rose and we reached the shoulder of the Matterhorn, we left her behind as I more confidently followed Emil up the snow-covered shoulder of the Matterhorn to the famous overhang. Emil belayed me as I went hand over hand up the free-hanging fixed ropes onto the roof of the mountain. By ten o'clock we stood on the Swiss summit. The Stanford coed and her guide caught up with us. I photographed them and then handed my camera to Emil who took my picture as a I stood there in triumph. However his aim was poor and he cut off my legs. Thus I do not have a picture of me with my boots standing on the top of the Matterhorn.
The weather was cold and windy with only the highest summits of the Alps visible above a sea of clouds. We remained on the summit for less than a half hour before we undertook a very cautious descent. It took four hours for Emil to carefully lower me from ledge to ledge back down the Hornli ridge. Just above the Belvedere Hotel Emil and I parted company. Emil loped down the path to meet another client at the Schwarzsee Hotel. With poor weather the norm that summer, he was eager to get work whenever he could.
In Zermatt the next day I futilely searched for that assertive woman with whom I had shared the Matterhorn's summit, hoping to ignite a romance. Two days later I paid Emil his fee of forty dollars, all that a guide charged fifty years ago to pull a novice up the Matterhorn. Forty dollars then had the buying power of from four to eight hundred dollars or more now.
Back in Rochefort three weeks later. I saw an article in the Stars and Stripes, the armed forces tabloid, on how a guideless pair, a young American from Colorado and an Englishmen, had fallen to their deaths from the Matterhorn. When I revisited Zermatt four years later I pondered over their graves and expressed my gratitude to Emil for sparing me from a similar tragic fate.
Today on my den wall is a poster-size kodachrome photograph of the Tiger of the Alps framed by Arolla pines. It shows me standing in the center of the picture two days after I had stood on its peak. I was quite skinny then, being sixty pounds lighter than I am now at age seventy-seven (see it among the Matterhorn photos).
I wonder if Emil is still alive. In 1959 Emil told me he had lost a brother from a rockfall on the Dom de Mischabel. He must be in his early eighties by now (2010). I still have a photo of Emil with rope and ice ax peering upwards toward the mountain. His care and expertise helped me realize the crowning achievement of my youth, a climb of that supreme symbol of mountaineering.
|Posted Oct 29, 2003 9:29 am|