Matterhorn - Monte Cervino Climber's Log
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|matterhorn mel||Route Climbed: Hornli Route Date Climbed: 26th August 2001 |
Date Climbed: Aug 26, 2001
|Left the Hornli Hut about 5am with Swiss Guide "Tommy". Conditions were perfect, reached the Solvay Hut about 8am without any real difficulties, had a drink and a quick bite to eat before setting off again. Apart from being too warm everything went fine to the Shoulder - then my Crampons went tumbling down the Mountain, good old Tommy went after them (I belayed him) they had lodged behind a rock not too far down. Set off again, Crampons intact for the Summit. Climbed the fixed ropes ok, we hit the Summit about 10am. Not bad for someone who had never done any rope climbing in their life. Although I did get some experience on an indoor rock wall first. So 5 hours to the top, 20 minutes rest stop for food, drink and photos, then we headed slowly down which took 4 hours (we abseiled quite a bit) we were having a beer in the Hornli Hut just after 2pm. Without a doubt my very best day out. Oh! would I do it again, are you joking, you bet I would. Fantastic!|
|Posted Jun 27, 2003 5:04 pm|
|Samuli Mansikka||Route Climbed: Hörnli-ridge Date Climbed: June 2002|
|Made it in june 2002 through the Hörnli ridge.|
|Posted Nov 3, 2002 12:21 pm|
|Moni||Route Climbed: Hörnli Date Climbed: 19 Aug 1985|
|Climbed with Fred Spicker. So many people, many of whom underestimated the length and exposure of the climb. Weather started to turn bad, but we made it down ahead of the fog.|
|Posted Aug 13, 2002 8:01 am|
|Chamonix Man||Route Climbed: Hornli ridge Date Climbed: 24th august 2001|
|"Climbed with one other guy, no guide. Left crowded Hornli Hut with mad rush at 0500, route finding was easy because of the number of people, would be a nightmare if it wasn't for that. The climb was fun, particularly the last third. We reached the summit at 0940 (4hrs and 40 mins)|
Spent 20mins at the top and then we descended in 5hrs15mins. Descent was the most nerve-racking part and route finding was a little tricky for the bottom third.
It is a serious peak despite the lack of technical difficulty, any mistake becomes very serious because of the steepness of the mountain and because people tend to move together (rather than pitching it) for speed. 4 people died the week before we climbed and we saw a nasty accident that was not fatal.
Prepare well (fitness, acclimatisation, and tecnical competence) good luck!"
|Posted Aug 9, 2002 5:58 am|
|Fred Spicker||Route Climbed: Hornligrat Date Climbed: 19 Aug 1985|
|Climbed with Monica Spicker.|
Took it slowly and carefully up and down and made it without incident. Reached the top between the guided groups and the slower groups, so we actually had the Swiss summit to ourselves for about 20 minutes.
|Posted Jul 25, 2002 1:23 pm|
|phillinley||Route Climbed: Hornligrat Date Climbed: July 24, 2002|
|Never in my life have I been so frustrated, frightened and exhilirated all at one time. I was lucky enough to have absolutely perfect conditions. Clear skies with a full moon at the start which helped the route finding at the start, almost no wind and only about 50 or so people on the whole mountain.|
|Posted Jul 25, 2002 10:13 am|
|Lorenz||Route Climbed: Lion Ridge Date Climbed: August 25th 2001|
|I found my partner on Internet as he attended the summit already twice in the past while I didn't know anything about Matterhorn. We found excellent conditions and reach the summit in 4h 30 from Carrel hutte. Great ascension, too much crowded probably. But we are talking of Matterhorn!|
|Posted Jul 15, 2002 5:45 am|
|ocelot||Route Climbed: Hornli Ridge (NE) Date Climbed: August, 1969|
|When I was 18, my Dad and I traveled Europe together, climbed in the Alps, and culminated the adventure by climbing the Matterhorn together. What a trip - what a Dad! It was a life-changing experience.|
|Posted Jul 9, 2002 8:43 pm|
|vstarc16||Route Climbed: Hoernligrat Date Climbed: 7. August. 2001.|
|We reached the summit at 17.15 due to great crowd and some tehnical problems. In a descend could not find a roue at 4100 m and bivouaced the night on a ledge. It started to snow during the night, at 6 we started to descend toward Solvay bivouac, reached at 8.00 (there were 10 of us abseiling, because some tried for the top). Stayed the day in a Solvay because was exorsted from the bivouac, next day it was 20 cm of fresh snow, and very soon visibility was les then 30 m and constantly snowing. Waited at 3800 for 2 h for fog to partialy clear up, but in the following descent went into E face, have to climb for 100 m again to Belvedere and reached it at 17.30. At that moment were able to see Hoernli hut, but it eould be impossible to reach it in remaining daylight so we built snowall (it was enough of it) to close a small niche and spent another night bivouacking. Morning was flowless, but it was 50 cm of fresh snow and awalanches ware already pouring on the E face, and we opted for evacuation by helicopter.|
|Posted Jun 30, 2002 9:37 am|
|Plizi||Route Climbed: Hornli ridge Date Climbed: june 2001|
|We didnt go with very good conditions but we was lucky|
about that becouse there no people on the route and the climb was in calm atmosphere with good friends
for good climber I think it is better Zmutt grat or someting else to reach the top of this star mountain
|Posted Jun 21, 2002 4:41 am|
|Rhino Holding Messer||Route Climbed: Tourist Date Climbed: Aug 1999|
|Posted Apr 16, 2002 7:50 am|
|billaknz||Route Climbed: Hornli Ridge Date Climbed: August 18, 2000|
Date Climbed: Aug 18, 2000
|Not technically hard, but it defeated me on my first attempt in 1997. Be in great condition and spend a week in advance doing other 4000M climbs. It's as consistently hard coming down as going up. Rock climbing experience is needed. An indoor wall might suffice if that is your only option. Practice on a fixed rope as this technique is essential above the shoulder. On the day, carb up big and take plenty of drink. With this preparation, a friendly guide (there are too many false routes) and a head for heights, you will have a decent chance of making the summit. The objective dangers are unrelenting and the scale is bigger than you might imagine, but all the holds are there. It's as mentally hard as it is a physical challenge. An intense 10 hours in my life, six up and four down. You will never regret the experience. Stress on your job will never seem as bad again. Disappointed my partner Diane Baldwin (Blackburn,UK) was not with me on the summit. If you're thinking of climbing the Matterhorn and have questions, feel free to email me. Good luck, Bill Hood |
|Posted Feb 11, 2002 2:56 am|
|JScoles||Route Climbed: Horni Ridge Date Climbed: June 30th 2001|
|Being one who has climbed Assiniboine and other Canadian Rockies I can assure you that mountain no matter how Picture Perfect is a skree heap. Well at least for the parts that weren’t covered in 3 meters of snow. |
I was in Zermatt from June 22 to July 1 and depending on whom you talk to it is either the best skiing in 20 years or the worst climbing in 30. There was and most likely still will be winter snow levels on the mountain at least till the end of July. The Guides are not even considering taking anyone up the Matterhorn until the 25th and even then they offer no guarantees.
This time of year the snow is of very poor quality. It is very hot during the day 15-25c at 4000m and warm at night 1 to –6. I managed to get most of the way up to the second hut but had to turn back simply because I was sinking down through 20-30cn of powder and occasionally through the crust underneath. Once or twice past waist level right up to my chest. Even of good pair of bear-paw or Algonquin’s (Canadian snowshoes) wouldn't have helped much.
I am not disappointed at all after all the mountain is not going anywhere so I can always go back.
My start day was June 30th and as far as I know I was the only climber on the mount. I started at Hotel Schwarzsee (the Hörnli Hut was closed and still may be for a little while as of the 5th only the winter hut was open) at 2.30 am weather was fine but it wind (30-50kph) picked up early at about 6am.
The famed lower route that everyone can’t seem to find was no real problem since by the time I got to the Hörnli Hut at 4 am the sun was already up and there was a well defined snow trail leading up. The route time to the second hut should be about 3 to 4 hours at most in summer less in winter but by around 8.30 am I was still not there. I went on for one more hour and got to a snowfield that lead up to it. Perhaps 100 meters below. The field was undisturbed powder snow about 45cm deep with some curst but mainly rocks underneath. This is were I decided to call it in and turn around. Physically I was feeling fine but with the wind still strong and wispy clouds starting to come of the peak and it neighbors (never a good sign) it was the wise choice. Basically it just was getting too unsafe to climb alone and without a mobile phone on the mountain.
I did stop for lunch in an alcove out of the wind and was surprised how much stuff was coming of the mountain. You could hear a constant din of rock fall as the snow melted and let them go. You could see them as well falling just off route. The temp by the way was about 16c in the sun at well over 3900m very hot to say the least.
The trip down was rather fast as I hade a 300m 9mm rope to rap down on and there are lots of chains bolts etc about to hook up to. Near the bottom I even got in some boot skiing on some of the less exposed bits. I was at the Hörnli hut by about 4:30 pm and it was full of climbers (25-30 the winter hut holds 15) there to try to climb it the next day. Most who could speak English gave me the usual third degree about conditions and I happily gave them my opinions. I made it back to Schwarzsee in time for double helping of dinner (thanks Hans) and to pack as it was my last day. The next morning when I was off I had a good look at the peak and no one was at the snow field below the second hut by 10:00 am and the weather closed in again so I figured no one was getting up it that day.
All in all a good recce for my next trip in a year of two. From what I have heard the conditions have only worsened this year with three deaths just after I attempted to climb it. Hopefully the fall climbing will be better.
|Posted Oct 2, 2001 4:26 am|