Matterhorn - Monte Cervino Climber's Log
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|granitepeaker||Icy Conditions |
Date Climbed: Aug 3, 2010
|The conditions were less then pleasant. The lady that checked us in at the hut said that no guides had gone up in the last several days. The Hornli hut was quiet and depressing with less then 20 people staying there. My partner and I had a 14 person dorm all to ourselves. With precipitation in Zermatt at 80% we still decided to make a go of it. Including my partner and I there was only 12 of us to brave the mountain that day. The entire mountain was very icy. White out conditions from snow and fog allowed the route to be visible for only about 20 feet in front of us. Of the 12 people, half turned around before the Solvay hut and were very shaken up and disturbed from getting severely lost on the route. After returning back to Zermatt the weather got even worse and it snowed in Zermatt, in early August no less.|
|Posted Aug 16, 2010 4:47 pm|
|JanG||Re: Icy Conditions|
|I am sorry that conditions were so bad in that it snowed down to the village. My personal experience confirmed that in early/mid Aug weather can get quite " wintry." As mentioned in my TR, twice in 3 trips to Zermatt in early August were characterized by snow all the way into town with more snow higher up making climbing the Hornli ridge almost impossible.|
|Posted Aug 27, 2010 3:16 pm|
|Deltakyp||Quiet day on the Hornli ridge. |
Date Climbed: Jul 21, 2010
|Climbed w/ guide Markus Beck (Swiss-American from Colorado), not a whole lotta snow at all, kinda dismayed at the melting all around the Alps this year... Great climb and only needed crampons last 300 meters or so. Had to overcome some nasty blisters on my heels from climbing Mont Blanc 3 days prior (small boots) and a toe that had to have blood drained from it from a torn toenail, but persevered! A classic climb with only a couple minor hold-ups/rocks kicked down on the route, but otherwise once we passed everyone, was a beautiful day!|
|Posted Jul 27, 2010 9:34 am|
|TodoVertical||Hornli ridge to summit, roped with Ruben y Javi |
Date Climbed: Jul 24, 2008
At the summit !!! .
More Pictures of the Hornli ascent to Monte Cervino
|Posted Nov 30, 2009 7:10 pm|
|Alibee2||Ali Milligan |
Date Climbed: Sep 12, 2009
|A perfect day on a perfect mountain with perfect company.|
Ali Milligan with Kurt Lauber on the Matterhorn.
3 and a half hours up, 3 hours down.
|Posted Sep 19, 2009 4:22 pm|
Date Climbed: Aug 31, 2009
|Solo climb from Hornli hutte. Beautiful mountain but very crowded.|
Almost 100 climbers on the way.
Not very funny, expecially along the return.ede
Anyway 4.20h up, 6.00h down.
|Posted Sep 1, 2009 2:28 pm|
|Nigel Lewis||Loooooong Day out! |
Date Climbed: Aug 14, 2009
|27 hrs from Carrel Hut to summit and return. Great day (and a bit!) |
Checkout my trip report!
|Posted Aug 18, 2009 6:47 pm|
Date Climbed: Aug 26, 2003
|3h55 up (25 min break) 3h40 down... go figure !|
|Posted Aug 13, 2009 3:17 am|
|richardpattison||Hornli Ridge |
Date Climbed: Jul 26, 2009
|We were hoping to climb the Liongrat from Italy but was reportedly in poor condition with no Italian guide having made the climb this year, so we went via the Hornli Hut. |
It proved a good decision, on our ascent, we passed two Italians at 7am who were descending after climbing the Liongrat, they summitted at 11pm having started at 4am the previous day! They were looking understandably exhausted having been climbing for 27 hours straight! Conditions were so poor they didn't fancy going back down the way they came.
From the summit we saw 3 climbers on the flat section of the Liongrat moving slowly, still a few hours from the summit.
It was a perfect day, great climb. We summitted between the Zermatt guides and the independent climbers so had 15 mins alone on the summit, excellent on a busy day. The fixed rope section was complete chaos, we lost well over an hour there on the way up & down, several ropes getting tangled with 2 groups moving up together and 2 down, like a circus. We took 6 hours up, 6.5 hours down, missed the last cable car so descended the full 3,000m descent into Zermatt on foot.
But a great day, we finished it off in style with a kebab in Zermatt!
|Posted Aug 11, 2009 11:17 am|
Date Climbed: Jul 11, 2008
|Changed plans from the Italian side to Hornli after storms had coated the mountain in ice. The fact that there hadn't been a single guide on the mountain all week should probably have been a red flag but we decided to go for it anyway. Us, and about 13 other climbers Forrest Gumped our way through rock that alternated between being encased in ice to crumbling beneath our feet before finally admitting defeat just below the Solvay hut. Made it back to the Hornli hut 18 hours after we'd set out that morning. Oh well... still a hell of a day out. Next time!|
|Posted Aug 8, 2009 3:53 pm|
|radson||Perfect Weather |
Date Climbed: Aug 6, 2009
|Not as crowded as feared. Fun climb, descent was a bit monotonous towards the end. Overall a lot more fun than I expected.|
|Posted Aug 7, 2009 4:43 am|
Date Climbed: Jul 29, 2007
|It was just second ascent in my life to 4000m peak. Though there was realy many people it was amazing climb and experience for me.|
|Posted Feb 3, 2009 9:41 pm|
|alejandro||Hornli Ridge |
Date Climbed: Aug 10, 2004
|It was a life-time achievement. Once fitness and weather conditions permitted an opportunity to ascend, I was climbing a mountain I've marveled my whole life. It was a privilege and an emotional accomplishment, culminating many previous attempts at rock climbing. Once it's over and done with, you're a more humble person, understanding that it is elements of nature that have the upper hand and you're just there to enjoy yourself and grow as a person.|
|Posted Oct 18, 2008 9:24 pm|
|PeterCorneliusSpaeth||Hörnli Ridge |
Date Climbed: Aug 28, 2008
|In good conditions. Experienced a bivouc and a heli rescue below us.|
|Posted Sep 11, 2008 3:23 pm|
|Corvus||Cresta del leone / Lion ridge |
Date Climbed: Aug 29, 2008
|Climbed in one day the Mattehorn by Lion ridge. From Duca degli Abruzzi to the summit in 5 h 30 min and the same time to go down. From the "Gran corda" to the "scala Jordan" by using crampons. Absolutely a great experience, a great feat.|
|Posted Aug 31, 2008 7:39 am|
|pablo||Route Climbed: Hornli Ridge |
Date Climbed: Aug 11, 2008
|After trying last year and early this summer (weather did not allow), this 3rd time the dream becomes true. |
Excellent and hard climb of 10 hours up and down:
4h30am Rolando and I leave the hut, just after Zermatt guides & their clients. 9h30am we are in the summit alone. We are in the middle of the faster and the slower ropes. Weather is good but annouced deterioration is coming up. This forecast is the reason why not too many people climbing today. We hurry down to the hut which we reach at 2h30pm. We take some refreshment and down to the telecabine which we reach at 4pm. Down to Zermatt then to enjoy some beer and typical saussages.
All in all, a wonderful though tough experience enabled fundamentally by friendship with Rolando and good dose of determination and preparation.
|Posted Aug 12, 2008 10:51 am|
|mvs||Route Climbed: Hoernli Ridge |
Date Climbed: Jul 27, 2008
|Very worthwhile and exhausting climb! We had plenty of snow on the ridge in previous days/weeks, and even new snow the night before. It took us a long time compared to many of the times I see here (very impressive). Walking at 4:00 am. At the Solvay Hut at 8:00 am. On the summit at 11:00 am. Back to the Hoernli Hut at 7:15 pm.|
Out of 45-50 people attempting, it seemed that 14 (including us) made the summit. We were the last summitters by about 30 minutes, which gave wonderful solitude on the summit and the way down!
With Theron Welch. (SP user "OZNID").
|Posted Jul 30, 2008 11:26 am|
Date Climbed: Jun 22, 2006
|I'm loving it!|
|Posted Apr 27, 2008 10:28 am|
|Cyrill||Matterhorn 4478m |
Date Climbed: Jul 28, 2007
|Fantastic Tour to Matterhorn 4478m. |
my picture are here: Link to Matterhorn 4478m
|Posted Nov 8, 2007 4:43 am|
Date Climbed: Aug 11, 2007
|Unfortuneatly a meter of new snow prevented the summit opportunity. Though it was a perfect day for climbing... self preservation came up as priority. A fantastic climb, understandable danger, loose rock is for certain, but a focused mind and steady step... this beast can be accomplished. made it about 3/4.|
|Posted Oct 22, 2007 2:09 pm|