Yosemite National Park > Matterhorn Peak > Climber's LogMatterhorn Peak Climber's Log
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| Andinistaloco | Route Climbed: Double Dihedral Date Climbed: July 2005  | |
| Well, we MEANT to do the North Arete, but got off-route and ended up on the other instead. Mostly clean climbing (one big loose block) but hard and sustained on the last pitch/es. Fun 4th class run to the summit from the top of the route, too. Also, lots of snow this year made the approach longer. Still, an incredible summit and a beautiful mountain. Be warned - this one takes longer than you might think! | |
| Posted Jul 14, 2005 5:06 pm | ||
| Sam Mills | Route Climbed: North Arete Date Climbed: June 24, 2005 | |
| With Matthew H. 16 hours car to car. This route took longer than I thought it would. Fun climbing on the upper pitches. | |
| Posted Jul 10, 2005 7:28 pm | ||
| gregorpatsch | Route Climbed: Southeast Slope from Horse Creek Pass Date Climbed: July 7, 2005 | |
| Reached the summit at 8:15 on a beautiful morning. Snow conditions in the Pass were nearly perfect. Hardest part was looking over the edge at the top. It was a climb I will never forget. | |
| Posted Jul 9, 2005 2:01 am | ||
| Zhenya77 | Route Climbed: East Couloir Date Climbed: June 5, 2005 | |
| Starting at 2:30 am from the base near the frozen lake (9,000 ft) we quite quickly reached the bottom of the East Couloir. It was extremely windy that day which encouraged us to move even faster. From the ledge of the Matterhorn Peak we scrambled in a total of 45 min to the summit. After quite a short stay at the summit, we decent to our base camp by retrieving the same route. I looked at my watch and could not believe that it was only 8:30 am, which indicated the earliest return time in my life. | |
| Posted Jun 7, 2005 11:08 pm | ||
| Rinat Shagisultanov | Route Climbed: East Couloir Date Climbed: June 5, 2005 | |
| A group of three (Zhenja, Olga and Rinat) successfully climbed East Couloir starting from the base camp on 9400 ft at 3:40 am and getting to the summit at 6:45 am. The snow conditions were great - well packed and striing snow. We used crampons from the base camp. We carrie snowshoes, but really did not need them and they were left at the base camp. The couloir is in good conditions and it is 75% covered with snow, the rest is the loose rocks and sand that can be avoided. We had some strong winds up there (30-35 miles/hour). This area is beatiful. | |
| Posted Jun 6, 2005 2:02 pm | ||
| cottersnow | Route Climbed: East Coulior Date Climbed: 3-10-04 | |
| This was a good day to say the least. Very cold but clear weather. 8 hours of snow shoeing got us to the notch and some fun and spectacular snowy mixed scrambling put us on top. The ride down was amaziing and be sure to scope the nice looking chute below the East couloir. This is probably the best winter riding I can remember. | ||
| Posted Feb 28, 2005 10:44 pm | ||
| Steve Larson | Route Climbed: SE slope Date Climbed: July 1976 | |
| Climbed with a YMCA backpacking group. Beautiful, sunny weather. It was my first Sierra Peak. I was hooked after that. | |
| Posted Nov 9, 2004 12:37 pm | ||
| Langenbacher | Route Climbed: Horse Creek Pass Date Climbed: October 10, 2004 | |
| Summited about noon, with Amit, Ted, Janet, and Alan. See Pictures at http://community.webshots.com/user/langenbacher . Sunny, no snow, a bit chilly and windy on top. Car to Car in 9 hours flat. | |
| Posted Oct 12, 2004 5:47 pm | ||
| mountainvoodoo | Route Climbed: SE slope via horse creek pass Date Climbed: October 3rd, 2004 | |
| Summited at 10:00 a.m with Steve & Russ from Tahoe, Light snow on summit. Beautiful view, will have to try the East Couloir next time. | |
| Posted Oct 4, 2004 5:21 pm | ||
| stoneman5 | Route Climbed: North Arete Date Climbed: September 2002 | |
| Very fun, not terribly committing. Beautiful camping, beautiful summit, nice trip. | |
| Posted Sep 13, 2004 7:32 pm | ||
| orandall | Route Climbed: east couloir Date Climbed: sep 05 2004 | |
| accidentally ascended to base of east couloir from first drainage/gully seen on HC trail. Not a bad route actually - mostly class 2/3 and allows you to skip talus and drops nearly at base of glacier. glacier itself was easy to cross in just standard hiking boots and is almost completely gone, although there were one or two very easily spotted crevasses. East Couloir is a very loose scree slog with heavy potential for rockslides. I stayed on the right wall for as much as possible - but it was impossible to completely avoid the scree. took one of the many vatiaions of the HC Pass "trail" on descent. Car-to-Car 12 hours. | |
| Posted Sep 6, 2004 8:27 pm | ||
| TDRoberts | Route Climbed: East Couloir Date Climbed: Aug 21 2004 | |
| Great mountain - strenuous hike up from Twin Lakes - especially with all the loose rock and sand in the couloir. Glacier easily crossed in approach shoes- lots of debris. Didn't spend much time on summit with afternoon clouds building - but strom did not break until well down into Horse Creek Canyon. | |
| Posted Aug 27, 2004 10:48 pm | ||
| tahoeberne | Route Climbed: Horse Creek Pass Date Climbed: Circa 1990 and again 1992 | |
| This was a long, but worthwhile hike. The last class 3 scrambling up the south wall was thrilling. Not a lot of room on the summit blocks. Great view. | |
| Posted Aug 13, 2004 8:31 pm | ||
| bennovak | Route Climbed: Southeast Slope from Horse Creek Pass Date Climbed: August 8, 2004 | |
| A pretty tough day hike filled with many obstacles. From the discriptions I read it looked pretty simple and short so my hiking buddy, Greg Paul, and I spent the evening before boozing it up in Bridgeport. Not a great idea; The use trail is hard to follow, the talus route up the pass is pretty tiring, the summit slope has plenty of scree and there is a bit of exposure towards the top. It was worth it but we agreed that we won't be coming back for seconds... or at least not with a hangover. | |
| Posted Aug 13, 2004 2:36 am | ||
| Diggler | Route Climbed: North Arête Date Climbed: 8 August, 2004 | |
| Climbed with Gordon(ye) & Mark (Pellucid Wombat). This route intimidated me from our campsite, as steep and bad-ass as it looked. While we never got off route, the route finding I found to be interesting. The exposure on much of the route was intense, the cracks were steep, and the crux dihedral was clean and great! Divying up each pitch into a half-pitch (to use best the 1 rope we had) made things interesting. The last real (dihedral/squeeze chimney) pitch we did as a full one. Great climb with good friends. | |
| Posted Aug 12, 2004 9:52 pm | ||
| PellucidWombat | Route Climbed: North Arete - descended East Couloir Date Climbed: August 8, 2004 | |
| Climbed this route with Dirk (Diggler) and Gordon as a finale to my mountaineering extravaganza in the Sierra. After 7 days on the Sierra Challenge w/ Bob Burd, this was an excellent way to finish up the trip! | |
| Posted Aug 10, 2004 4:41 pm | ||
| gordonye | Route Climbed: North arete Date Climbed: August 8, 2004 | |
| Climbed with Dirk Summers (Digger) and Mark Thomas (PellucidWombat). My first ever multi-pitch climb. We camped at beautiful Matterhorn Lake, and from there ascended slabs left of the drainage until the top of the moraine of Matterhorn Glacier. Crossing the glacier was easy without using crampons, as the steeper parts could be bypassed by climbing debris piles all the way up to East Couloir. The couloir was snow-free, and we found the start of the route a little ways up the couloir above a big left-facing open-book according to JD's helpful tips. Beautiful climbing and great company! | |
| Posted Aug 10, 2004 4:36 pm | ||
| Alpinist | Route Climbed: SE Slope Date Climbed: July 18, 2004 | |
| Climbed Matterhorn from Horse Creek Pass as part of a 10-day backpacking trip in Yosemite and the Hoover Wilderness Area. | |
| Posted Jul 27, 2004 8:19 pm | ||
| Shaase | Route Climbed: East Couloir Date Climbed: October 2003 | |
| Great day topping out with perfect alpen glow twilight after a late start. | |
| Posted Jun 22, 2004 4:03 pm | ||
| RSN473 | Route Climbed: SE Ridge Date Climbed: October 1999 | |
| Climbed south east ridge - avoided the sandy SE Slope by staying on or close to the ridge (climbers right) | |
| Posted Mar 11, 2004 10:40 am | ||
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