Matterhorn Peak Climber's Log

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metasyn11

metasyn11 - Jun 25, 2007 10:28 pm Date Climbed: Jun 25, 2007

East Couloir  Sucess!

Headed up the mostly snow-free and very loose east couloir from Twin Lakes. The climbing was good and so was the day. I didn't want to get off the summit everything was so beautiful and perfect, but eventually I descended via horse creek pass.

Pantilat

Pantilat - Jun 20, 2007 2:34 am Date Climbed: May 12, 2007

East Couloir  Sucess!

Great intro to the Sierra!

Vladislav

Vladislav - Apr 6, 2007 7:46 pm Date Climbed: Aug 13, 2006

East Couloir  Sucess!

Inspiration is found
In soft snow and towering rock spires,
In fleeting shadows of clouds,
Not in the ramblings
Of some mediocre writer.

littlefrantz

littlefrantz - Mar 21, 2007 8:40 pm Date Climbed: Mar 19, 2007

East Couloir, Ski Dreams  Sucess!

Awesome splitboarding trip. Even some wind-packed powder up at the top of Ski Dreams! I think I'm in love with these here Sierras.

mow10

mow10 - Mar 17, 2007 7:05 am Date Climbed: Jul 14, 2006

N Arete to Double Dihedral (oops)  Sucess!

Last pitch of Double Dihedral is one of the best pitches ever. Dihedral curves, pinches off, step to a white face with a 5.8 vertical crack system up to the tip of the pyramid....awesome.

hockeyman

hockeyman - Mar 7, 2007 4:57 pm

Nice relaxing trip - North Arete  Sucess!

Had planned on 4 days - nice easy trip. Made it up from Twin Lakes in an easy day. Set up camp by the small lake. Summited the next day. No issues. Did the North Arete. A bit hard to find the start. Kicked back in camp on Day 3 and hiked a bit. Decided to hike out that afternoon.

MichaelJ

MichaelJ - Feb 20, 2007 10:32 pm Date Climbed: Feb 17, 2007

East Couloir, 5.6 variation

Adam and I postholed up to 8.4k (snowshoes in the car) for a winter attempt on the N. Arete. Twin Lakes was pretty dry but a recent storm had left a couple of feet of unconsolidated snow higher up. Ditched the rack and rope at camp and postholed another 4k feet the next morning, leaving the tent at 3am, on the summit by 10. Climbed the E. Couloir and ridge, soloing some 5th class rock to keep things interesting. Couldn't find summit register under the snow. Beautiful weather.

KevinEldon

KevinEldon - Nov 22, 2006 3:18 am Date Climbed: Nov 18, 2006

Missed the trail, sunk in the snow

Didn't make the summit. I missed the trail hiking in from twin lakes and rambled through forest some boggy meadows and then took the wrong chute up toward Horse Creek pass. The snow was 2-3 feet deep and way too soft in the drifts at 9000 feet and the chute I picked was a very very bad choice. Oh well... it was a beautiful day and beautiful set of mountains.

mlarkin2002 - Oct 21, 2006 9:08 pm Date Climbed: Jul 31, 2006

Failed attempt due to weather

Rained / snowed to scare a group of four of us away from the peak. We turned around at Horse Creek Pass.

Peak Baguette

Peak Baguette - Oct 16, 2006 5:10 pm Date Climbed: Oct 15, 2006

Route Climbed: SE Slope from Twin Lakes, Date Climbed 10.15.06  Sucess!

Kerouac said it best "Here we are by the fresh pure lake walkin along in this good air, by God, it's a haiku in itself."

cyarmak

cyarmak - Oct 11, 2006 9:13 pm Date Climbed: Sep 30, 2006

Almost

This was my first time in this area, and from twin lake up to the apline lake i was very exited to get climbing. The first day was great, hiking up to the base was warm for september. Then came the next day, it started out very, very nice. A few clouds in the sky to block the direct sun light, and no wind. But at about 10am after 3 pitches on the North Arete, the wind started to pick up a lot. Then sitting at a belay, i hear a yell from one of my party members, Dan. "i think we are going to start back down." When i got up to them, i look to the west and the sky had turned from a beautiful day to black clouds. So down we started, and after about 10 mins of setting up, it stated to snow, and got colder, and much winder. So we got down. The peak won the battle, but ill be back to win the war.

Kerstin

Kerstin - Sep 1, 2006 1:44 am Date Climbed: Aug 30, 2006

Southeast slope.  Sucess!

We camped at around 9200 feet in Horse Creek Canyon. It was extremely windy and hard to use our stove. The next day we hiked to the pass and started up Matterhorn Peak. This was a spur of the moment trip. We were driving through Bridgeport on our way to Bishop. We'd planned to do something in the Bishop Creek area. We both decided we didn't want to drive that far so we got a permit and headed to Twin Lakes. The lack of information about the area made for a fun little adventure. I did have the maps and a compass. The southeast slope was a slog, with bottomless loose gravel in a lot of places. Spiller Creek Canyon was so beautiful! After grunting our way up the loose rock and gravel, I found the summit ridge to be a lot of fun. We went straight up some very solid class three rock to reach it. The view from the top was amazing.

renaistre

renaistre - Aug 8, 2006 1:51 pm Date Climbed: Aug 6, 2006

East Couloir  Sucess!

Aside from a lot of loose rocks and dirt in the chute, it was a fun climb. Great weather, beautiful views. We almost lost part of our lunch in one of the many deep cracks at the summit. There were six in our party.

jtree

jtree - Aug 1, 2006 7:48 am Date Climbed: Jul 30, 2006

East Couloir  Sucess!

Larry S. and I tagged the summit via Horse Creek in 13 hours round trip. The views from the summit are awesome even for a Sierra peak!

kovarpa

kovarpa - Jul 8, 2006 4:13 am Date Climbed: Jul 4, 2006

Up West couloir, down East Couloir  Sucess!

Very enjoyable climb with Vendulka with a combination of snow and rock climbing. Up West Couloir, traverse summit ridge, down East Couloir. Roundtrip 11.5 hrs from Twin Lakes.

mountainmatt

mountainmatt - Mar 18, 2006 6:03 am

Walk Up

Topped out after some awesome random 3rd class scrambling.

dshoshone

dshoshone - Nov 8, 2005 6:40 pm

Route Climbed: east couloir Date Climbed: 8/14/2004  Sucess!

Great climb with a couple of fs rangers from Mammoth Lakes

plume

plume - Nov 7, 2005 10:28 pm

Route Climbed: right hand couloir Date Climbed: 5/98, 7/00  Sucess!

Great climb, numerous times. And going back.

Michael Graupe

Michael Graupe - Oct 19, 2005 9:49 pm

Route Climbed: SE slope Date Climbed: Fall 2002  Sucess!

Tagged the summit on the return from Whorl Mountain. Long dayhike out of Twin Lakes.

Scott Kreider - Oct 17, 2005 12:17 pm

Route Climbed: SE Slope Date Climbed: October 16, 2005  Sucess!

Left Twin Lakes about 6am by headlamp and summitted around 11:40 There was a light dusting of snow everywhere that made for slippery going. The many use trails are highly confusing. Going up I made the mistake of going left of the main drainage through a huge scree pile at a "step" just below the last trees before the pass. Heading straight up the center of the gulley here there is another use trail which avoids this.



I did not find the summit register. I would like to know if I was a bonehead and missed it or if it has gone missing. There was enough snow that it could have been hidden, but I scoured (what I believe) is the summit pretty carefully.

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