I went down this way when the top half was melted. Do NOT EVER do that. Not a soul, under any circumstances whatsoever. I am lucky to be sitting here getting fat in front of my computer. It's like a booby-trap of greasy baseballs stacked 2000' high. Why that sucker didn't collapse is beyond me. This was in the mid-1990s, and maybe a day later someone was killed on El Diente under similar circumstances. She suffered a broken femur which lacerated her femoral artery, which left untreated for very long at all, really, is incompatible with human life. I survived to see and hear Jeffery Siegal (of "Keyboard Conversations" fame) perform in the Benedict Music Tent at the Aspen Music Festival. Not before I blew a tire on the infernal Castle Creek crossing miles below! I would LOVE to climb this route in Spring though; gotta love an inset couloir in such a setting.
"After the first glass, you see things as you wish they were. After the second, you see things as they are not. Finally, you see things as they really are, which is the most horrible thing in the world."
--Oscar Wilde on Absinthe