I went down this way when the top half was melted. Do NOT EVER do that. Not a soul, under any circumstances whatsoever. I am lucky to be sitting here getting fat in front of my computer. It's like a booby-trap of greasy baseballs stacked 2000' high. Why that sucker didn't collapse is beyond me. This was in the mid-1990s, and maybe a day later someone was killed on El Diente under similar circumstances. She suffered a broken femur which lacerated her femoral artery, which left untreated for very long at all, really, is incompatible with human life. I survived to see and hear Jeffery Siegal (of "Keyboard Conversations" fame) perform in the Benedict Music Tent at the Aspen Music Festival. Not before I blew a tire on the infernal Castle Creek crossing miles below! I would LOVE to climb this route in Spring though; gotta love an inset couloir in such a setting.
"As an adolescent I aspired to lasting fame, I craved factual certainty, and I thirsted for a meaningful vision of human life - so I became a scientist. This is like becoming an archbishop so you can meet girls."