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Mazama Glacier via Cold Springs Trailhead
Trip Report

Mazama Glacier via Cold Springs Trailhead

 

Page Type: Trip Report

Location: Washington, United States, North America

Object Title: Mazama Glacier via Cold Springs Trailhead

Date Climbed/Hiked: Jul 25, 2017

Season: Summer

 

Page By: CallMeBrown

Created/Edited: Jul 28, 2017 / Jul 28, 2017

Object ID: 1003995

Hits: 146 

Page Score: 71.06%  - 1 Votes 

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Mazama Glacier on Mount Adams

We planned a family trip up Mount Adams, my wife Natalia, myself,and our 12-year old son Cadence.

The Bird Creek Trailhead is still closed so we approached via Cold Springs. Left the trailhead at 11a. Up the South Route Trail for about a mile and half, went right on the Round the Mountain Trail. Went about 2 miles until we could see up the mountain towards the Gotchen Glacier.

Looking up towards Gotchen
Looking up towards Gotchen


We worked our way up the snow fields towards the Gotchen, went over a small pass, dropping into a snow filled basin with a small ice filled lake at the bottom. Passed through the basin, and climbed up some steeper snow fields heading to the pass at the eastern end of the basin.

Looking back towards pass coming into Gotchen Glacier
Looking back towards pass coming into Gotchen Glacier


Looking past Gotchen Glacier towards pass heading eastward
Looking past Gotchen Glacier towards pass heading eastward


From that pass, you look easterly and can see Sunrise Camp on the far ridge.

Looking from Gotchen Glacier Pass towards Sunrise Camp
Looking from Gotchen Glacier Pass towards Sunrise Camp


We traversed the snow fields below a number of steep snow filled chutes and above a larger glacial lake. We arrived at the Sunrise Camp high camp at 4p. Camp was empty.

At camp, there were numerous rock walls to block the wind, the ground was dry on the ridge,and a number of small creeks were flowing around the camp area. We lounged and relaxed until sunset and went to sleep. We were the only party at Sunrise Camp that night.

Waking at 3a and leaving camp at 4a, we roped up and headed up the right side of the glacier, reaching a rock ridge about 750 feet up where a crevasse reaches pretty far across, passing above the crevasse on the right and working our way up the right side above another large crevasse on the right.

Route up the lower part of the Mazama Glacier
Route up the lower part of the Mazama Glacier


Reaching the second steep section of the glacier, the snow was very firm, we started up the left side and made an upward trending traverse rightwards to the ridge and worked our way up this side to the top of the snowfield.

Route up the middle section of the Mazama Glacier
Route up the middle section of the Mazama Glacier


From this point, we traversed leftwards to the head of the South route and pulled over the top of the snowfield onto the plateau at 7a. There were only about 5 teams on the south route that day, so it wasn't totally busy.

Summit pyramid on Mount Adams
Summit pyramid on Mount Adams


We traversed the Plateau and worked our way up the snowfield in the center of the summit pyramid and summitted at 815a. We spent about 30 minutes on top with only one other party and then headed down. We followed our route back down in quickly softening snow, passing a late starting party on our way, reaching camp at 1145a.

We lounged at camp for a bit then broke camp and headed back to the Cold Springs trailhead via our approach route, at 1p. We arrived back at our truck at 5p.

Images

Looking up towards GotchenLooking from Gotchen Glacier Pass towards Sunrise CampSummit pyramid on Mount AdamsLooking back towards pass coming into Gotchen GlacierLooking past Gotchen Glacier towards pass heading eastwardRoute up the lower part of the Mazama GlacierRoute up the middle section of the Mazama Glacier



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