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Micro Chuck, 2 Pitches, 5.9
Route

Micro Chuck, 2 Pitches, 5.9

 
Micro Chuck, 2 Pitches, 5.9

Page Type: Route

Location: Utah, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 37.21300°N / 112.97°W

Object Title: Micro Chuck, 2 Pitches, 5.9

Route Type: Trad Climbing

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall

Time Required: Less than two hours

Rock Difficulty: 5.9 (YDS)

Number of Pitches: 2

Route Quality: 
 - 1 Votes
 

 

Page By: Dow Williams

Created/Edited: Oct 23, 2013 / Oct 23, 2013

Object ID: 873286

Hits: 444 

Page Score: 78.27%  - 9 Votes 

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Overview/Approach

 
Micro Chuck, 5.9
2nd Pitch Splitter

Micro Chuck is one of many worthy crack routes on Kung Fu Theater Wall in Zion National Park. Along with Danielson, it offers the easiest climbing on this wall. Micro Chuck and Sweep the Leg Johnny anchor the far right side (west) of the north facing Kung Fu Theater and if you travel just a few meters further west, you will encounter too much sun in the afternoon on hot summer days. Kung Fu Fighter, Inner Chi, Mortal Combat and Blood Sport are by far the best routes on this wall. But if these mostly wide 5.10-5.11 cracks are over your head, Micro Chuck, Sweep the Leg Johnny, Japanimation and Cave Dweller are all worthy crack routes at the next level down.

The first pitch (5.7) is dirty and lacks intrigue, but the second pitch is worth the trip up. Bryan has the route listed as 5.8 in text, but labels the last pitch crack 5.9 on his topo which seemed to be on target for Zion grades.  On the first pitch  I chose to stop below the huge chock stone for rope drag consideration. The chimney below the chock stone was fun and of course the splitter/slight corner above to the tree rap was real good (.4 to hands).  Bruce Lee Memorial is a second pitch variation to Micro Chuck that does not look to appetizing, a slanting dirty crack out left that leads to the same belay/rap.

Park at the last switchback before entering the tunnel. Hike along the well-established trail past all other climbs listed for Kung Fu Theater until the trail almost meets the wall at the west end before the trail and wall both turn south. A faint climbers trail leads a few meters up and left to the base of Sweep the Leg Johnny (black bolt down low). Micro Chuck starts up the blocks to the left in the immediate right facing corner. You can go left or right up the dirty cracks.

Route Description

Micro Chuck, 2 Pitches, 5.9

1st Pitch- 25m- 5.7/ Climb either dirty crack option up from the blocks through several bulges moving left a time or two. I climbed the left one. The crux is a short corner just below a treed ledge up and left. Best to belay at that tree.

2nd Pitch- 30m- 5.9/ Climb up the fun stem chimney and follow the crack up the left side of the huge chock stone. Head up from the chock stone to engage the small straight up corner/splitter. A few .4 pieces get you to solid hand jams. The crack gets 4” wide at the top, but easy moves are up left to the belay/rap ledge.

Climbing Sequence

Descent

Rap tree was slung with modern tat and a rap ring in 2013. Rap back to the top of the chock stone and pull yourself out right to the fixed rap rings atop Sweep the Leg Johnny. Rap from there with a 70m rope to the ground.

Essential Gear

70m Rope, Single rack to C4#4 should be more than adequate. Trees are good for the stations. This wall is the coolest spot to climb in the main Zion canyon during the summer months. Dress appropriately.

Images

Micro Chuck, 5.9Inner Chi, 5.11Micro Chuck, 5.9Micro Chuck, 5.9Micro Chuck, 5.9