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Middagsaksle

 
Middagsaksle

Page Type: Route

Location: Norway, Europe

Lat/Lon: 69.55979°N / 19.35905°E

Object Title: Middagsaksle

Route Type: Mountaineering, Scrambling, Skiing

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter

Time Required: Most of a day

Rock Difficulty: Class 3

Route Quality: 
 - 1 Votes
 

 

Page By: darinchadwick

Created/Edited: Apr 9, 2010 / Jun 11, 2013

Object ID: 611813

Hits: 860 

Page Score: 72.08%  - 2 Votes 

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Overview

This is the standard route on Hamperokken that most parties use. The long ridge traverse is constantly interesting without being too difficult. In winter the lower part of the ridge is a popular ski run.

Getting There

Follow directions on main page for parking.

Route Description

 
Hamperokken Sunset
Middagsaksle on the skyline
From the parking area, cross the bridge over the tiny stream and began past a large barn and farmhouse. There is a good woodcutter's track that is easy to follow. Though the track isn't in a straight line, it saves time from cutting through the trees and brush, especially important during winter ski ascents. As the trees thin, the track turns to a path, and above treeline the path fades out in the steep heather (lyng). Keep following up to the ridge crest.


Stay on the ridge crest traversing toward the summit. When not possible to stay on the crest, most of the traverses go to the right below the crest, though there is one ledge system fairly early on that is on the left above the north face and is fairly exposed[ 
Hamperokken Main Ridge
 



The final gendarme before the summit pinnacle is passed on the right. There is more than one ledge to use to ease around this feature, generally, the lower one descends, the easier it is to get around it. I've found the best ledge to be about 40 meters or less from the top. 
Beginning up the summit pinnacle of Hamperokken
View of last gendarme and southwest slope
 
Hamperokken winter climb
Traverse of the final gendarme



Once this final gendarme is skirted, its fairly obvious how to get up the pinnacle. The wide chute going up the center has a slightly less steep grade, many use the right hand side, and eventually use the right edge for the final few meters before the summit.


In winter, the route is basically the same, though parking is a little more tricky since the main parking area is snowed in. Most skiers will turn around after getting to the ridge crest as the ski descent from here is excellent. . 
Top of Middagsaksle Hamperokken
 
If continuing, dump the skis. For a more direct ski ascent, look at the Southwest Spur route. 
Hamperokken telemark descent
 

Essential Gear

From Tromsdalstind summit at 3am.
Many summits visible from Tromsdalstind.
Hamperokken in the center foreground.  The entire middagsaksle ridge route is visible.  It's the long ridge split in sun\shade.
The skyline in the back shows part of the Jiekkevarre traverse.  Look from the summit of Hamperokken, behind and just to the left of the summit pinnacle is Holmbuktind.  One can see the top of the skiing route.  Follow the ramp of snow to the pass, and take a sharp right to get to the summit.  From there, continue left to Jiekkevarre, the highest dome.  Continue looking left to the gap and onward to Kveita, which is the next dome of snow on the far left edge of the picture.
Also in this photo, in the foreground to the left of Hamperokken is Gabrielfjellet, which is an extension of Hamperokken, but can be considered a separate peak.
The peak immediately to the right of Hamperokken is Bj√ɬłrnskardalstind (trans. Bear Pass Valley Peak.)
Summer: A trekking pole makes the descent in the steep heather (lyng) much easier. Most parties do not rope up, even though exposure is significant.

Winter/Spring: Depending on conditions, Randonee or Telemark ski equipment, crampons, ice axe.

External Links

Nice map overlay of route and photos.kugo 666

Images

From Tromsdalstind summit at 3am.Winter ascent of MiddagsaksleYour Three Correspondents and HamperokkenHamperokken winter climbHamperokken SunsetHamperokken Main RidgeThe main climbing route of...
Beginning up the summit pinnacle of HamperokkenHamperokken telemark descent