Middle Earth, 5.9
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1st - 120’- 5.9/ Although the vertical tunnel pitch (5th pitch) is much more interesting and the main reason to climb Middle Earth, this first pitch is the most challenging of the day. Start up the chossy white chimney section on the left side of a flake/pillar as it leads to more difficult off width. The issue with this off width is having enough trust in the rock to move outside when you need to. This section makes for a heady lead for a few meters before giving way to easier chimney moves on much better rock. You break out onto a large ledge, the same ledge below the good hand crack pitch on the Frigid Air Buttress route. If you move to the middle of the ledge you will find a good belay crack below the next hand crack pitch that angles out left. Be careful in the management of your rope(s) in relation to a mobile death block above your belayer.
Middle Earth, 5.9, 6 Pitches, Frigid Air Buttress, Icebox Canyon, Red Rocks, 2010