|ascensionist||Lingerie - 5.11D|
|A superb climb with an awkward balancy crux early on the route. Route decreases in difficulty as elevation is gained. Great finger-locks! As a point of reference, this climb reminded me somewhat of Trout Creek’s “Alchemy” but with an easier crux.|
|Posted Sep 27, 2010 12:26 pm|
|I saw a sign posted on my way to Sunset Park that said the Middle East Wall was closed due to Prairie Raptor Nests...is this an archaic sign or is it now closed (I think the dates were April 1 to August 15 or something like that).|
Here is another source noting the same thing:
|Posted Mar 22, 2011 12:14 am|
|I think 3 sets of cams is a little much for this route. A good rack that will get you up this very comfortably would be 2 sets from Blue Alien to .75 Camalot then singles on up to...3 or 4?|
|Posted Jul 24, 2011 12:56 am|
|Ethan626||Left Out - 5.9|
|Climb the Thin - Hand crack to the left of the bolted line "Savage Heart" |
This climb starts fingers with some face holds then begins to widen to thin hands/perfect hands. Face holds along the way provide some rests.
Cams from .75" - 2"
If you are uncomfortable at the grade/rock I would recommend bringing extra #1 Camalots.
TR off the "Savage Heart" anchors.
|Posted Sep 27, 2011 3:00 pm|