A superb climb with an awkward balancy crux early on the route. Route decreases in difficulty as elevation is gained. Great finger-locks! As a point of reference, this climb reminded me somewhat of Trout Creek’s “Alchemy” but with an easier crux.
I think 3 sets of cams is a little much for this route. A good rack that will get you up this very comfortably would be 2 sets from Blue Alien to .75 Camalot then singles on up to...3 or 4?
ascensionist - Sep 27, 2010 12:26 pm - Hasn't voted
Lingerie - 5.11DA superb climb with an awkward balancy crux early on the route. Route decreases in difficulty as elevation is gained. Great finger-locks! As a point of reference, this climb reminded me somewhat of Trout Creek’s “Alchemy” but with an easier crux.
Ethan626 - Jul 24, 2011 12:56 am - Hasn't voted
JihadI think 3 sets of cams is a little much for this route. A good rack that will get you up this very comfortably would be 2 sets from Blue Alien to .75 Camalot then singles on up to...3 or 4?
Ethan626 - Sep 27, 2011 3:00 pm - Hasn't voted
Left Out - 5.9Climb the Thin - Hand crack to the left of the bolted line "Savage Heart"
This climb starts fingers with some face holds then begins to widen to thin hands/perfect hands. Face holds along the way provide some rests.
Cams from .75" - 2"
If you are uncomfortable at the grade/rock I would recommend bringing extra #1 Camalots.
TR off the "Savage Heart" anchors.