Middle Palisade Climber's Log
[ Sign the Climber's Log ]
|gordonye||Route Climbed: NE Face Date Climbed: September 2, 2001|
|With Vladimir. We were planning to follow the "Northeast Face" route described here. When we reached the top of the moraine splitting the glacier we met a party who pointed to us a shorter route: starting from the southern half of the glacier, then follow the chute directly to the summit. This chute was to the left of the main chute outlined in the picture posted by snwburd. The band of rocks was reddish but were surrounded by whitish stuff, however, we bypassed it.|
Then we changed route again when trying to climb up from the south half of the glacier. We saw a 30 feet long class 4 chimney up the cliff face marked with ducks. So we picked this one instead of the supposedly class 3 ramp further to the left. Above the crack it was mostly class 3 clean rock with good holds, sometimes with short class 4 sections. There was no loose rock whatsoever. This was my first 14er and first experience with class 4 climbing. A beautiful peak with a nice challenge, this was a very fun mountain.
|Posted Sep 4, 2001 12:16 pm|
|Josh||Route Climbed: Northeast Face Date Climbed: August 1, 2001|
|This was the sixth peak of my CA 14er tour.|
After descending the East Couloir of Mount Sill, I scrambled over to the Northeast Face of Middle Palisade. In order to avoid some snow at the base of the route, I headed straight up to the right of the real start of the route. After a hundred feet or so, I joined the real route and followed it to the summit. The textbook Class 3 climbing was a lot of fun.
On the descent, I was faced with the task of finding my way down the South Fork of Big Pine Creek. I had never been up this way before, and I didn't see any trails. The guidebook was useless (as usual) and the topo didn't reveal anything noteworthy. So, I headed directly down to Finger Lake.
I'll spare you the details, but it suffices to say that after a few hours of scrambling, bush whacking, going back uphill in order to avoid swimming in the lake, and crossing back and forth across a steep stream, I found the real trail. It was getting dark, so I took out my headlamp. It must have twisted on during the day because the batteries were completely dead. So, I stumbled down the trail to my car in the dark.
|Posted Aug 25, 2001 1:01 am|