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Middle Palisade Climber's Log

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cabNortheast Face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 3, 2012


Overnight hike from Glacier Lodge with three friends. Just before we crossed the bridge across the North Fork, we encountered a rattlesnake but had no other excitement reaching camp at Finger Lake.

Got an early start the next morning and had no trouble negotiating the boulders to the start of the route. We went out onto the glacier for 50 vertical feet or so (used crampons and axe, but probably not necessary) and easily found the ramp leading to the chute. We stepped over the 1-foot wide gap onto solid rock and then up the ramp to the chute. Climbing the chute was great fun with lots of steep, solid rock that didn't feel very exposed. After summitting, we returned the same way, knocking some rocks down in the process. Don't forget your helmet on this one! Definitely one of my favorite Sierra climbs to date.
Posted Aug 6, 2012 3:18 pm

dstevenson0204Intense but Fun  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 8, 2011


This was the peak that got me started into mountaineering. Super steep and great exposure! I loved this climb.
Posted Aug 2, 2012 5:09 pm

Bill562NE Face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 28, 2012


Via glacier approach with Alvin W, camped at the base on the way back. CA 14er #12 for me, 13 for Alvin
Posted Jul 31, 2012 12:40 am

barrel47NE Face with Two Teens  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 24, 2012
With my 14 year old son, my neighbor and his 13 year old son, set out on June 23 and backpacked up to the the tarn just below the Middle Palisade Glacier. Reasonably tough hike, especially the last 1.5 miles of boulder hopping and talus sliding. We left at 5:30am the next morning and enjoyed the sun rise just as we headed up the main moraine. The glacier was still pretty firm, but we made it to the ledge with hiking boots and poles. No problem getting on the ledge, no gap yet. Very enjoyable climbing the entire way up without another party on the mountain (or anywhere in the area for that matter). About 2/3 of the way up, I led the group into a right chute when I should have gone left. Some class 4 in this section that had me concerned about the trip down. At the top of this chute we topped out on a "false" summit (a great summit on its own with a flat top about the size of a kitchen table, very cool), we then down climbed from here and completed the climb from the "correct" chute. Back in camp for dinner that night and then the long walk out on the 25th. Truly an amazing adventure. Our two teens knocked off the adventure with ease.
Posted Jun 26, 2012 5:14 pm

Ol WalsherNortheast Face
Date Climbed: Sep 16, 2011

Ol Walsher

Great day with Jed and Chad.
Posted Jun 17, 2012 11:50 pm

krrt2000East Face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 10, 1993


Great climb, one month after knee micro surgery
Posted Feb 26, 2012 10:26 am

danman3156East Face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 24, 2011


Fun 3rd class! Second day of a two week backpacking trip.
Posted Nov 8, 2011 1:17 am

ssbclimberMiddle Palisade
Date Climbed: Sep 3, 2010


Attempted with Ezra Danciu. Couldn't find the entry chute and glacier had receded way back from the rock being so late in the year. Looks awesome and will definitely try again. Next time I'll camp at Finger Lake though. It's a long haul to make car to car in a day.
Posted Oct 8, 2011 2:25 am

QuadaxialSuccess on Northeast Face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 14, 2011


Fantastic class 3! Definitely veered into some class 4 at times, but wonderful.
Posted Oct 5, 2011 12:18 am

cbuelowNortheast Face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 16, 2011


Great day with JedSMG and Ol' Walsher...camped at Finger Lake and had the route to ourselves...
Posted Sep 19, 2011 1:10 am

Mark NNE Face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 6, 2011

Mark N

Third attempt - first and second attempts were in late season/low snow years and the first move off the glacier was considerably harder. Much easier this time!
Posted Sep 13, 2011 8:28 pm

oliverkaltNE-face, great climb  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 20, 2011


Great route on good rock with the usual slight gravel topping. The entry ledge was easy to spot and the rest was obvious. Perfect weather, perfect climb, perfect day!
Posted Aug 21, 2011 1:56 pm

KapelmuurAs a dayhike  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 8, 2011


Long day from the trailhead up Northeast Face--16 hours roundtrip. Perfect weather but hellish mosquito warfare through Willow Lake area.
Posted Aug 9, 2011 2:22 pm

TheNobleSunfishSecond time!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 22, 2010


Fun ascent by the standard route with Caltech Alpine Club.
Posted Jul 25, 2011 8:18 pm

Vitaliy M.awesomeness   Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 25, 2010

Vitaliy M.

favorite scramble, make sure there is a party ahead for more fun. Day-hike with Chad.
Posted Jun 28, 2011 4:31 pm

TheNobleSunfishAmazing Climb  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 13, 2009


First real class 3 route. Fantastic.
Posted May 3, 2011 2:31 am

GigaMikeNE Face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 29, 2010


Did a day climb of the NE Face with Richard P.
Posted Feb 4, 2011 12:45 pm

mrchad9NE Face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 26, 2010


What a lovely mountain.

Second Vitaliy's sentiments...
Posted Sep 27, 2010 1:58 pm

CWesselsNortheast Face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 4, 2010


Day hike from Glacier Lodge. Took the chute (climber's) left of Secor's and got a little confused. Eventually dropped into the correct chute to finish. Pretty fun climb. Didn't need axe or crampons, but poles helped. I will say that the red-rock band that leads up from the moraine and into the main chute looked pretty sketchy; I think the class 3 ledge from the glacier was a better choice (and it's not too hard to find).
Posted Sep 9, 2010 6:15 pm

DHeuscheleFailed - lost Helmet and black mesh bag with contents
Date Climbed: Aug 21, 2010
I meant to take the Secor route, but ended up far left of the summit (~200 vertical feet below summit and ~450 horizontal feet from summit) with not enough water to attempt a descent and ascent via differt route. Mistake I made was early on the secor route going too far left and ending on wrong side of little ridge.

Real reason for post is that I lost a helmet and black mesh bag with contents between Finger Lake and Middle Palisades glacier. If found please contact me at Hoysch@hotmail.com or 858-312-6020. I can describe contents of black mesh bag to verify that it is mine.

Posted Aug 24, 2010 5:28 pm

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