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Middle Palisade Climber's Log

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jdmorehouseDay Hike  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 17, 2014


We left Glacier Lodge at 4:20 a.m. We were looking for the "hidden ramp" described by Secor, but had trouble finding it because the glacier has retreated about 20' that spot, now requiring a class 4 to low class 5 climb up to the ledge in question. After that, route finding was a simple affair. I think we spent over an hour on the summit, the views and weather were so good. On the way down I managed to lose my glasses down the crack between the glacier and the mountain, so I had to hike out with my prescription sunglasses until it got dark, fortunately we were on trail by this time, so it was easy to follow it without my glasses.
Posted Nov 18, 2014 1:40 pm

DougHemkenLooks so improbable  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 24, 2014


The whole route has long since melted out, this drought year.
Posted Aug 1, 2014 8:20 am

douggrangerNE Face via Red Band  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 7, 2013


Climbed the Red Band to the main chute. Followed the groove diagonally up and to the right side of the main chute, then went up and left, staying left at the two branches on the way up. 30 feet below the summit, traverse on the east side of the summit towards the left to avoid the class 5 boulders of the direct route. In the main chute, the left side is more solid, but class 4-ish, and is a better route to avoid rockfall when other climbers are below. Summit register is bolted to a rock 5 feet below summit.
Posted Sep 11, 2013 4:00 pm

DonnoNE Face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 19, 1999


W/ Scott & Yukon Jack
Posted Aug 12, 2013 10:40 am

westhegimpFrom South Pass, traverse to Middle Pal.
Date Climbed: Jul 1, 2012


Training hike up South pass, with over night on the ridge at about +13K to see how I would sleep, not good! Traversed over in the morning and down climbed the standard route to the glacier.
Posted Aug 11, 2013 7:38 pm

DebStellar Dayhike  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 31, 2013


My virgin trip to Middle Palisade Glacier. Began route by jumping from snow to Class 4 pedestal. Hit summit 65 minutes later. Absolutely loved this climb - like a granite ladder!
Posted Aug 5, 2013 9:40 pm

slagerjonAwesome Dayhike!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 26, 2013


Alpine start, good conditions, ascended via standard route. Wandered into some stout fourth on ascent up both chutes, route was obvious on descent, should have paid more attention, but the spice was enjoyed. Took a shortcut(probably added 1+ hr. to descent) through the tarn-finger division and around the SE side of finger (NW doesn't work). Car-to-car in a little under 12 taking it easy. Highly recommended!
Posted Jul 30, 2013 9:09 am

iditarod81Northeast Face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 6, 2013


The only way we found the start to Secor's chute was with GPS coordinates. River crossing was really low this year so we rock-hopped accross. Camped by a tarn 11,300 ft up with strong winds. All in all a great climb in a beautiful wilderness area.
Posted Jul 7, 2013 10:55 pm

mtneeringbetter late  Sucess!


than never to sign this thing
Posted Feb 14, 2013 11:00 pm

rdesotaGreat Climb  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 16, 2003


Climbed with my soon to be wife and had an absolutely great time. The third class is truly epic. Sounds like an oxymoron. Beautiful.
Posted Oct 8, 2012 12:34 pm

SkyPilot84Northeast Face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2012


From Finger Lake. We started the route via the loose, red chute (as opposed to Secor's chute). After that we decided the left branch of the main chute looked more promising so we took it. The summit was only a few hundred feet to the left of the top of this chute. We couldn't find the summit register.
Posted Aug 14, 2012 11:29 pm

cabNortheast Face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 3, 2012


Overnight hike from Glacier Lodge with three friends. Just before we crossed the bridge across the North Fork, we encountered a rattlesnake but had no other excitement reaching camp at Finger Lake.

Got an early start the next morning and had no trouble negotiating the boulders to the start of the route. We went out onto the glacier for 50 vertical feet or so (used crampons and axe, but probably not necessary) and easily found the ramp leading to the chute. We stepped over the 1-foot wide gap onto solid rock and then up the ramp to the chute. Climbing the chute was great fun with lots of steep, solid rock that didn't feel very exposed. After summitting, we returned the same way, knocking some rocks down in the process. Don't forget your helmet on this one! Definitely one of my favorite Sierra climbs to date.
Posted Aug 6, 2012 3:18 pm

dstevenson0204Intense but Fun  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 8, 2011


This was the peak that got me started into mountaineering. Super steep and great exposure! I loved this climb.
Posted Aug 2, 2012 5:09 pm

Bill562NE Face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 28, 2012


Via glacier approach with Alvin W, camped at the base on the way back. CA 14er #12 for me, 13 for Alvin
Posted Jul 31, 2012 12:40 am

barrel47NE Face with Two Teens  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 24, 2012
With my 14 year old son, my neighbor and his 13 year old son, set out on June 23 and backpacked up to the the tarn just below the Middle Palisade Glacier. Reasonably tough hike, especially the last 1.5 miles of boulder hopping and talus sliding. We left at 5:30am the next morning and enjoyed the sun rise just as we headed up the main moraine. The glacier was still pretty firm, but we made it to the ledge with hiking boots and poles. No problem getting on the ledge, no gap yet. Very enjoyable climbing the entire way up without another party on the mountain (or anywhere in the area for that matter). About 2/3 of the way up, I led the group into a right chute when I should have gone left. Some class 4 in this section that had me concerned about the trip down. At the top of this chute we topped out on a "false" summit (a great summit on its own with a flat top about the size of a kitchen table, very cool), we then down climbed from here and completed the climb from the "correct" chute. Back in camp for dinner that night and then the long walk out on the 25th. Truly an amazing adventure. Our two teens knocked off the adventure with ease.
Posted Jun 26, 2012 5:14 pm

Ol WalsherNortheast Face
Date Climbed: Sep 16, 2011

Ol Walsher

Great day with Jed and Chad.
Posted Jun 17, 2012 11:50 pm

krrt2000East Face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 10, 1993


Great climb, one month after knee micro surgery
Posted Feb 26, 2012 10:26 am

danman3156East Face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 24, 2011


Fun 3rd class! Second day of a two week backpacking trip.
Posted Nov 8, 2011 1:17 am

ssbclimberMiddle Palisade
Date Climbed: Sep 3, 2010


Attempted with Ezra Danciu. Couldn't find the entry chute and glacier had receded way back from the rock being so late in the year. Looks awesome and will definitely try again. Next time I'll camp at Finger Lake though. It's a long haul to make car to car in a day.
Posted Oct 8, 2011 2:25 am

QuadaxialSuccess on Northeast Face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 14, 2011


Fantastic class 3! Definitely veered into some class 4 at times, but wonderful.
Posted Oct 5, 2011 12:18 am

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