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Middle Palisade Climber's Log

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utclimberMiddle Palisade  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 9, 2017
Started from the Glacier Lodge road. Tricky creek crossing with fast moving deep water. Really beautiful and enjoyable scrambling near the top. Round trip was a little over 10 and a half hours.
Posted Sep 23, 2017 5:45 pm

BlackmouthFinal 14er !!!!!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 29, 2017


15th and final 14er. Camped at the small lake above Finger Lake. Had the whole Mountain all to myself. On the hike in I had my first sighting of the elusive "Sierra Chicken". Great day to be in the backcountry.
Posted Aug 30, 2017 2:23 pm

RomainNE Face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 23, 2012


Went alone but met nice people on the way.
Posted Jul 15, 2016 1:50 am

SchwartzOnDayhike to Summit  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 25, 2016


Got an early start and with little more than water just ascended. The traverse along Finger Lake was gorgeous, and starting the climb at Middle Pal glacier was simple. After 5 years drought and one good snow year, glacier seemed nice and firm, but stuck to the Red Bands for Summit Route instead of Secor's Standard Route to avoid deglaciated ice. Incredible 3rd class for 1500 feet, sustained effort, but not much really committing. Hopped all the way down and back to car. River crossing was high (to hips) and turned back a few backpackers. Should have taken more pictures, it is really stunning to be on the Palisade Crest.
Posted Jul 15, 2016 1:09 am

alex1981Middle Palisade
Has anybody climbed Middle Palisade lately (May - June 2016)? What are the conditions on the glacier? How hard is it to find the ledge? It is almost impossible to find any recent information online. Thank you.
Posted Jun 21, 2016 11:36 am

pBergnortheast face, red rocks  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 15, 2015


Day 1 backpacked to Brainerd Lake. Day 2 summit NE face via Red Rocks. Day 3 return to trailhead.

Detailed trip report and photos here: http://peakbagger.com/climber/Ascent.aspx?aid=564163
Posted Apr 4, 2016 9:20 pm

fernandoe@yahoo.comAs far as the chutes
Date Climbed: Oct 17, 2015


Three of us made it to the base of the chutes on the East Face. We camped at the small lake above Finger Lake at 11,200 ft. At 11,400 ft. we encountered knee deep snow. We made it to the base of the chutes at roughly 12,900 ft. Option 1 was to go onto the glacier and look for the diagonal entrance ridge, but the glacier had 3 or 4 ft. of snow on it and looked treacherous. Option 2 was to climb the class 4 rocks with rope and gear, but this was treacherous too. We came back down to base camp.
Posted Oct 22, 2015 3:09 pm

FairweatherDay hike / NE Face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 12, 2009


No route finding issues. Nice clear day.
Very fun climb.
Posted Oct 18, 2015 1:24 am

CameronGroundNE Face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 14, 2015


Excellent scramble, so fun I nearly climbed it twice in the same afternoon. Buddy was feeling the altitude at the base of the route, so I went up the first time alone while he took a nap. Took a 4th class route up from the middle of the moraine, then stayed on the rib at the left side of the chute that leads directly to the summit. Descended via the red chute, which has a lot of loose stuff in it, but also plenty of solid stuff to grab and stand on. Once down, buddy boldly proclaimed he felt better and wanted to give it a go, so up we went. But he inevitably started feeling sick again about half way up, and about 300 feet from the summit decided he ought to turn around as it was getting to the point of possibly making the downclimbing dangerous. Couldn't leave him alone in that state so didn't go for the double.
Posted Aug 18, 2015 1:41 am

rockcarlNE Face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 11, 2015


w/Robert. Great fun climbing thru thick clouds/fog on the way up, which cleared for awesome summit views! Experimented with red rock chute on the way down- pretty loose and sharp. Wouldn't recommend for the ascent.
Posted Jul 14, 2015 1:07 am

DieselMiddle Palisade day hike  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 27, 2015


Solo hike. Trouble at 5:00AM when I couldn't find then trailhead. I had no idea South Fork and North Fork started on the same spot. I followed the direction along the Glacier Ledge, got to the creek, had to take shoes and socks off to cross it, when on the other side there was a beautiful bridge over. It took 45 minutes to find the trail (but I'll write a trip report about that.) Thanks go to summitpost's Cab and his topo map; I was able to get to the mountain all right without wasting time. Lucky me, at the top of the moraine there were 4 hikers who pointed me to the elusive ledge (they never got on it.) A few difficult moves and got past the ledge and on the mountain. Summited at 12:50PM. Dark heavy clouds made me be quick up there. Back at the car at 7:00PM. I consider this one most difficult day hike I've done so far due to the infinity field of boulders from Finger Lake to the base of the mountain.
Posted Jul 12, 2015 2:15 pm

jdmorehouseDay Hike  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 17, 2014


We left Glacier Lodge at 4:20 a.m. We were looking for the "hidden ramp" described by Secor, but had trouble finding it because the glacier has retreated about 20' that spot, now requiring a class 4 to low class 5 climb up to the ledge in question. After that, route finding was a simple affair. I think we spent over an hour on the summit, the views and weather were so good. On the way down I managed to lose my glasses down the crack between the glacier and the mountain, so I had to hike out with my prescription sunglasses until it got dark, fortunately we were on trail by this time, so it was easy to follow it without my glasses.
Posted Nov 18, 2014 1:40 pm

DougHemkenLooks so improbable  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 24, 2014


The whole route has long since melted out, this drought year.
Posted Aug 1, 2014 8:20 am

douggrangerNE Face via Red Band  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 7, 2013


Climbed the Red Band to the main chute. Followed the groove diagonally up and to the right side of the main chute, then went up and left, staying left at the two branches on the way up. 30 feet below the summit, traverse on the east side of the summit towards the left to avoid the class 5 boulders of the direct route. In the main chute, the left side is more solid, but class 4-ish, and is a better route to avoid rockfall when other climbers are below. Summit register is bolted to a rock 5 feet below summit.
Posted Sep 11, 2013 4:00 pm

DonnoNE Face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 19, 1999


W/ Scott & Yukon Jack
Posted Aug 12, 2013 10:40 am

westhegimpFrom South Pass, traverse to Middle Pal.
Date Climbed: Jul 1, 2012


Training hike up South pass, with over night on the ridge at about +13K to see how I would sleep, not good! Traversed over in the morning and down climbed the standard route to the glacier.
Posted Aug 11, 2013 7:38 pm

DebStellar Dayhike  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 31, 2013


My virgin trip to Middle Palisade Glacier. Began route by jumping from snow to Class 4 pedestal. Hit summit 65 minutes later. Absolutely loved this climb - like a granite ladder!
Posted Aug 5, 2013 9:40 pm

slagerjonAwesome Dayhike!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 26, 2013


Alpine start, good conditions, ascended via standard route. Wandered into some stout fourth on ascent up both chutes, route was obvious on descent, should have paid more attention, but the spice was enjoyed. Took a shortcut(probably added 1+ hr. to descent) through the tarn-finger division and around the SE side of finger (NW doesn't work). Car-to-car in a little under 12 taking it easy. Highly recommended!
Posted Jul 30, 2013 9:09 am

iditarod81Northeast Face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 6, 2013


The only way we found the start to Secor's chute was with GPS coordinates. River crossing was really low this year so we rock-hopped accross. Camped by a tarn 11,300 ft up with strong winds. All in all a great climb in a beautiful wilderness area.
Posted Jul 7, 2013 10:55 pm

mtneeringbetter late  Sucess!


than never to sign this thing
Posted Feb 14, 2013 11:00 pm

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