Welcome to SP!  -

Middle Palisade Climber's Log

Sort By:

[ Sign the Climber's Log ]
Viewing: 1-20 of 149 « PREV 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8  NEXT » 

leftyNortheast Face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 15, 2007


Posted Sep 20, 2007 1:45 am

CookieMonsterAlmost made it!
Date Climbed: Aug 10, 2007


The glacier turned me back at ~13,000ft. It only had an inch of soft snow with glare ice underneath. There are also open crevases as of Aug 10th. One fall = you are screwed without an axe. My backup plan was the "red and white" route. Unfortunately, I got lost below Finger Lake and wasted an hour. Didn't like the look of the "red and white," so I'll come back another day. Took approx. 11.5 hours RT for this first timer. Expect 12 hours RT if you are fast and know the route.
Posted Aug 16, 2007 12:15 am

saladRoute Climbed: NE Face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 28, 2007


Day hike, really enjoyed the chute. Looks a lot more challenging from the approach.
Posted Jul 29, 2007 8:56 pm

eggheadsherpaNE Face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 15, 2007


Climbed the NE face with four others from SoCal. A very fun climb with solid handholds throughout. We went up the "Main Chute" and came down the "Secor Chute". The Main Chute has solid handholds but loose rock, and the runout is a bit intense. After that the route has some great class 3 climbing for 1,000ft.
Posted Jul 16, 2007 12:47 pm

plumeEast Face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 23, 2007


Great climb w/ the wife. ONe of the most beautiful summits in the Sierra.
Posted Jun 24, 2007 2:38 am

Dave SEast Face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 17, 2007

Dave S

Solo climb via East Face - beautiful day in the mountains! Ran into Tomcat and friends along the way.
Posted Jun 21, 2007 2:08 am

fossanaE Face  Sucess!


Aug ?, 2001
Posted Apr 8, 2007 10:45 pm

tb00957mid pal  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 22, 2006
Using several trip reports, we stayed completely class 3 or lower. A bit loose but great fun.
Posted Jan 11, 2007 11:25 pm

ChuckONE Face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 30, 2006


Solo from camp at Finger Lake. Lived up to all the advertisment - loose rocks down low, fun ledges, awesome summit views, lots of elevation gain. Used Bob Burd's lower entrance chute instead of Secor's - loose crumbly rock, but a straight forward route to find.
Posted Oct 2, 2006 10:42 pm

bechttNE Face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 2, 2006


Climbed with Ryan . Great view north -- Mt Agassiz, which we had climbed the day before, was just peeking through between Mt Sill and North Pal. Pictures
Posted Sep 5, 2006 3:47 pm

MoapaPkRe: NE Face


You know, after looking at pictures of the route, I'm still not sure what the heck Secor was talking about. I understood Bob Burd's instructions, though.
Posted Sep 7, 2006 3:14 am

jonhershNE Face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 7, 2005


Fun 3rd class climb with my brother. Camped at the north end of Finger Lake and enjoyed the views.
Posted Sep 1, 2006 4:51 am

MoapaPkNo crampons or axe needed lately  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 6, 2006


NE "Face": As of Aug 6, one could travel up the middle moraine and cross over to the "red band" (brown-red?) in summer boots (non-goretex vasque catalysts for me). We crossed about 20' only of high-angle snow, and it readily admitted kick steps.

That chute to the top has plenty of class 3 holds, but is otherwise a shooting gallery for loose rock. If there are more than 2-3 closely-matched people in the party, consider taking helmets. I probably spent 80% of my energy trying NOT to kick up loose rocks; but rocks 1' distant from my boot would let go at the merest suggestion. I ended up climbing down every talus-free rock rib I could find, and we spread laterally across the gully to avoid beaning each other.

I was initially surprised at the number of people who did that trip as a dayhike from the Pine Cr Campground. However, the round trip is about 14-15 miles, with about 6500' elevation gain, half on semi-decent trails. If you start early at the parking lot, it should be "easy" enough.
Posted Aug 7, 2006 8:01 am

dpatmalloyNE Face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 14, 2006


Great climbing day - firm snow for crampons from the inlet of Finger Lake all the way up the glacier. Ledges to the face were easy to find. A slushy snowfield covered what I believe to be the "standard" route, up the left branch of the main couloir, and I climbed the right branch of the couloir instead. Good rock and good climbing, but some definite 4th class and some interesting routefinding near the top. Great fun!
Posted Jul 15, 2006 10:01 pm

virginiapineClyde Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 26, 2006


Climbed the Clyde Rt. on the E. Face: first came 2 MI2 (e.g., feel like 5.6) pitches directly below the central chute (e.g., just N of the rib dividing the glacier) going around the right end of the glacier's high pt. to get onto the bergshrund, then traversed left and up into the steambed cut into the chute. Fun technical work - crampons, axes, & good rock pro. We tried the snow field above but it was shallow with ice beneath so climbed alongside and onto the rib on the left, thus avoiding the 3 avalanches that cut loose from the snowfield later in the morning. After an airy step around the tower on top, we moved up and left to the next rib. Climbing this became progressively harder up to the summit, where at 1:20PM we discovered it was storming over on Winchell/Agassiz. We hustled down and luckily had no lightning, just graupel after we found the easy part of normal route when halfway down (2nd chute left of the main chute when facing the pk.). Altogether an interesting climb in these conditions (2006 is a big snow year in the Sierras).
Posted Jul 5, 2006 9:37 pm

Luciano136NE face
Date Climbed: Jul 1, 2006


Still LOTS of snow left. Didn't have a great weekend and fatigue+a huge gap between the glacier and the face, made me turn around. More luck next time I guess.
Posted Jul 4, 2006 9:34 pm

Mountain JimNortheast Face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 20, 1980

Mountain Jim

Easier climb than it looks on the approach ... great summit !!!
Posted Mar 14, 2006 6:51 pm

grahamRoute Climbed: NE Face Date Climbed: Aug-28-05  Sucess!


Beautiful day hike/climb. The entrance traverse from the top of the glacier was surprisingly easy
Posted Nov 25, 2005 2:53 pm

kevin trieuRoute Climbed: NE Face Date Climbed: October 23 2005  Sucess!

kevin trieu

Went up some class 4 (with ice & snow) at the end of the west glacier that took me 3 hours then tranverse back to the class 3 chute described by Bob Burb. Summited around 2pm with Patrick Bauman Nobody else was on the mountain except two Russian dudes, Igor & Vladamir I think. It was a beautiful cloudless day.
Posted Oct 24, 2005 6:29 pm

tdoughtyRoute Climbed: NE Face  Sucess!


With Don Huntress
Posted Oct 16, 2005 1:45 pm

Viewing: 1-20 of 149 « PREV 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8  NEXT » 
[ Return to 'Middle Palisade' main page ]