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Middle Palisade Climber's Log

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Team:ANDYnCALEBRoute Climbed: Class 3 Date Climbed: 7/06/02  Sucess!
Team:

Andy Hillstrand and Michelle.

Caleb and Dessa Courtney

very rewarding climb. Good class 3 route with a constant exposed view. Only recommendation is to have helmets as loose rock is a very real threat and a small amount of gear for repelling just in case.

Posted Jul 9, 2002 12:57 pm

darinchadwickRoute Climbed: Northeast Face Date Climbed: August 2000  Sucess!

darinchadwick

Of all the CA 14ers, this is the most fun. Camping at Brainerd lake is wonderful, the talus is a slog, but the face itself is really fun 3rd class. We were the only people on the route, good thing too cause we didn't have helmets, and bozos above would be bad news on this route.
Posted Apr 1, 2002 11:24 am

ElwoodRoute Climbed: East Face Date Climbed: June 2001  Sucess!

Elwood

A real enjoyable climb & a fairly short approach hike, when compared to the N. Fork trail. We camped at Brainard Lake, which was the nicest camp I've stayed at while attempting any big peak in the Sierra.
Posted Nov 3, 2001 9:07 am

GuiltyRoute Climbed: East Face Route Date Climbed: Aug. 25, 2001  Sucess!

Guilty

Solo from the South Lake Trail-Head to the bottom of the face where I met Patrick. Ascended the East Face to the summit. Total ascent time 4:15 hrs. Descended the West Face to the PCT next to the Palisade Lakes. Followed PCT over Mather Pass,then cross-country to the West Face of Split Mt. Met up with fellow climber, Nancy, on summit of Split, then descended the North East Chute to the Red Lake Trail-head.
Posted Oct 21, 2001 2:13 pm

mdostbyRoute Climbed: Northeast Face Date Climbed: 9-7-01

mdostby

Wow! All I can say is "what a day"!
Posted Sep 9, 2001 12:52 pm

gordonyeRoute Climbed: NE Face Date Climbed: September 2, 2001

gordonye

With Vladimir. We were planning to follow the "Northeast Face" route described here. When we reached the top of the moraine splitting the glacier we met a party who pointed to us a shorter route: starting from the southern half of the glacier, then follow the chute directly to the summit. This chute was to the left of the main chute outlined in the picture posted by snwburd. The band of rocks was reddish but were surrounded by whitish stuff, however, we bypassed it.



Then we changed route again when trying to climb up from the south half of the glacier. We saw a 30 feet long class 4 chimney up the cliff face marked with ducks. So we picked this one instead of the supposedly class 3 ramp further to the left. Above the crack it was mostly class 3 clean rock with good holds, sometimes with short class 4 sections. There was no loose rock whatsoever. This was my first 14er and first experience with class 4 climbing. A beautiful peak with a nice challenge, this was a very fun mountain.
Posted Sep 4, 2001 12:16 pm

JoshRoute Climbed: Northeast Face Date Climbed: August 1, 2001  Sucess!

Josh

This was the sixth peak of my CA 14er tour.



After descending the East Couloir of Mount Sill, I scrambled over to the Northeast Face of Middle Palisade. In order to avoid some snow at the base of the route, I headed straight up to the right of the real start of the route. After a hundred feet or so, I joined the real route and followed it to the summit. The textbook Class 3 climbing was a lot of fun.



On the descent, I was faced with the task of finding my way down the South Fork of Big Pine Creek. I had never been up this way before, and I didn't see any trails. The guidebook was useless (as usual) and the topo didn't reveal anything noteworthy. So, I headed directly down to Finger Lake.



I'll spare you the details, but it suffices to say that after a few hours of scrambling, bush whacking, going back uphill in order to avoid swimming in the lake, and crossing back and forth across a steep stream, I found the real trail. It was getting dark, so I took out my headlamp. It must have twisted on during the day because the batteries were completely dead. So, I stumbled down the trail to my car in the dark.
Posted Aug 25, 2001 1:01 am

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