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Middle Palisade Climber's Log

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Gail JRoute Climbed: NE Face Date Climbed: Sept. 14,1997  Sucess!

Gail J

My first fourteener. I made it. A great day.
Posted Aug 15, 2004 1:08 pm

cp0915Route Climbed: NE Face Date Climbed: July 9, 2004  Sucess!


Fantastic. Though a near-epic.
Posted Jul 11, 2004 10:01 am

Fred BagniRoute Climbed: North East Date Climbed: June 2003  Sucess!

Fred Bagni

Beautiful place. Carry plenty of mosquito repellant. One of my best trips. Best class 3 climb.
Posted Jul 10, 2004 6:39 pm

kelseymkrauseRoute Climbed: Northeast Face Date Climbed: June 27, 2004  Sucess!


This was a great climb! The red stained rock is crumbly, so be careful and check your holds. The rest of the rock is great. Luckily we were the only ones on the mountain otherwise rockfall could have been a problem. I would advise helmets.
Posted Jun 28, 2004 4:23 pm

Scott PierceRoute Climbed: NE Face (Up Left Couloir) Date Climbed: Late May 2004  Sucess!

Scott Pierce

Did the route as part of a ski tour. We crossed South Fork Pass from the west the day before and bivied in some rocks near the base of the glacier.

We had a large group, so managing the risk of rockfall while climbing was the biggest challenge.

Entered the couloir via a short ramp coming up from the glacier on the NE side--there are some belay slings there, so it sees some traffic. Went up the left fork of the couloir.

A few hours for a fast group bivied near the glacier--took us longer but bivy to bivy it took only 8 hours, with plenty of time on the summit ridge for pics.

Recommended for small groups with good class 3 skills only.
Posted Jun 19, 2004 3:32 pm

Sam MillsRoute Climbed: Northeast Face Date Climbed: August 2003  Sucess!

Sam Mills

I climbed this route with SummitPost members Misha, Etsuko, Michael G. and Andrew. A fantastic climb on a fantastic peak. Michael and myself went on tho climb Norman Clyde Peak (Mid Pals neighbor) the same day. Tent to tent, 12 hours.
Posted Jan 29, 2004 5:40 pm

mtnfotoRoute Climbed: NE Face Date Climbed: Summer 1980  Sucess!
Climbed this with Mark Goebel. This route defines class 3 climbing.
Posted Jan 22, 2004 3:34 pm

RobtRoute Climbed: NE Face Date Climbed: July 2003  Sucess!


Posted Nov 5, 2003 3:37 pm

dvsanbtRoute Climbed: NE face (var) Date Climbed: october 4, 2003  Sucess!


dayhike from trailhead. got on the ledge system leading to secor's chute by going through the moat between the glacier and the rock face. finding the ledge system was straightforward. however, instead of getting on secor's chute, i ended up to the left (on the way up) of

the ridge defining the left side of secor's chute. did not realize my mistake at that time and climbed up this chute (still class 3). when the ridge my right (left ridge defining secor's chute) started to run out, i found myself on the correct route again (after a couple of class 4ish moves). met with two others near the summit. awesome peak and route.
Posted Oct 6, 2003 3:56 pm

GuiltyRoute Climbed: N.E. Face (Secor Route) Date Climbed: 9-14-03  Sucess!


Third time up. One Mt. left for completing all the Cal. 14ers'for the third time. Very sunny and windy. Met a few Japanesse climber that turn around half way up because of the exposure. Very tricky dodging rocks from them. Hmmm!
Posted Sep 24, 2003 1:15 am

sierragatorRoute Climbed: NE face (secor chute) Date Climbed: september 7, 2003  Sucess!


dayhike from parking lot. good climb, great views. 14'er number 9....
Posted Sep 7, 2003 11:02 pm

MishaRoute Climbed: NE Face (Secor Chute) Date Climbed: August 23, 2003  Sucess!


Climbed this excellent route with Andrew, Etsuko,Michael Graupe and Sam Mills. We camped at the small tarn above Finger Lake. Instead of following the talus slope to the base of the glacier, we went on through the fun Class 3 chimney. Finding the ledge above the glacier was much easier than anticipated. We used crampons and ice axes to cross the iced up snow in order to get to the ledge. It was probably doable w/o crampons but not desired. Once in the Secor chute, climbing is sustained and very pleasant. Michael and Sam went on to bag Norman Clyde that day, while Andrew, Etsuko and I decided to take it easy and enjoy the summit views for nearly 2 hours! I read through both of the summit registers, they go back to 1993. Found lots of entries from SPers and a couple of Peter Croft's from last week (he climbed it twice within 3 days:). Definitely an A+ mountain and route!
Posted Aug 25, 2003 9:56 am

mdostbyRoute Climbed: Northeast Face Date Climbed: August 16, 2003  Sucess!


Miguel Forjan (aka George of the jungle) and myself climbed this mountain in one long day from Glacier Lodge. Fantastic class 3 climbing on good rock. Found the ramp leading up from the glacier to Secor's Chute by ascending aprox. 50 yards up and onto the glacier. Snow was soft enough so no crampons were needed. Down climbed from the summit as fast as possible with lightning and thunder all around us. Felt a little bit uneasy about the idea of becoming human lightning rods. Made it to the glacier before we got rained on. Took our time boulder hopping on slippery terrain all the way to Finger Lake. From there we picked up the pace and were back to cars by dusk.
Posted Aug 18, 2003 1:10 pm

forjanRoute Climbed: Northeast Face Date Climbed: August 16, 2003  Sucess!


Day hiked Middle Pal in 16 hours roundtrip with mdostby (Mike). Started from Glacier Lodge trailhead parking lot at 4:00am.

We decided to take Secor's chute. To get up to the chute from a distance I saw a small 20 foot dihedral and thought it was class 4. I was wrong. It was more like 5.2 and with exposure. I took a risk free soloing this; however, when I was in it I knew I couldn't downclimbing it and now had to commit to get up it. After clearing this, the rest of the climb was very fun class 3 and sustained all the way to the summit. Reached the summit at 1:10pm. We left the summit at 1:50pm after dark thunderstorm clouds quickly developed. Luckly we got rained on right by the ledge and glacier's 'schrund/moat---wouldn't want to downclimb the class 3 rock wet. Next crux was crossing the creek now in the evening with tons of water (this creek grew more than 1 foot in depth from when we crossed it in the morning 'til we crossed it again in the evening). Mike got wet as he crossed with his tennis shoes on. I bushwacked and monkey-climbed the willows/trees there and only got my left foot partially wet. We got back to the trailhead a few minutes past 8:00pm, and then drove to the Pizza Factory in Bishop to pig out. A long day, indeed.
Posted Aug 18, 2003 12:39 pm

Rinat ShagisultanovRoute Climbed: North East Face Date Climbed: July 4-5,2003  Sucess!

Rinat Shagisultanov

On July 4-5 a group of 4 people (Taras Usyk, Max Gusev, Elena and Rinat Shagisultanov) climbed Middle Palisade via class 3 NE Face. We had a base camp at the high lake (Elev 11500 ft) above Finger Lake.

Started hiking along the moraine at 4:30 am on July 5, came to the upper section of the Middle Pal Glacier at 7 am. After careful reviewing we found out the starting ledge where you have to travel on the glacier for 20-25 min. It was not difficult, but one has to be careful going on the"sun cups" without ice axe. There is a moat at the rock base, but it is easy to cross before heading up the Secor's chute. The routefinding is easy, the route has a lot of loose rock that can be bypassed if you go on more technical rocks. We did it because we wanted to avoid throwing rocks on the groups below. The group reached the summit by 10:40 am and we were the first group on July 5. There were 2 groups of 6 people (total) below us.

The returing to the base camp was uneventful, except for the retrieval of a backpack that fell into the moat due to the plastic plate. So this became a kind of a glacier resque training with rope and hauling.

Returned to the base camp at 4 pm and hiked out by 9 pm to the trailhead. The creek crossing was a bit tricky, we completed it safely.

The temps during the daytime were ~70-80F, the nighttime temps were above the freezing.

As side notes: 1) WEAR A HELMET (nevermind how careful you are, you cannot count on the same thing with the people above you on the chute with loose rocks). 2) BRING ICE AXE to travel on the glacier (it is worth its weight) 3) BRING REPELLENT to keep the mosquitoes out. They were terrible until elev 12000 ft. All people who had a camp at Finger Lake suffered from the bugs. 4) BRING A SHORT ROPE/PRUSSIK and some pro for the summit ridge as it requires some class 3+ - class 4 move to the summit and somebody without experience may find it difficult to downclimb it on the way back. 5) There a several good spots for camping at 12000 ft before the terminal moraine with a lot of streaming water.

Posted Jul 10, 2003 4:35 pm

Paul SpraycarRoute Climbed: Northeast Face Date Climbed: August 10, 2000  Sucess!
Great climb, roundtrip from the trailhead in 14 hours. Caution needed above the glacier: loose rock nearly took our heads off more than once.
Posted Jun 29, 2003 3:54 pm

DigglerRoute Climbed: E-face Date Climbed: 26 August, 2001  Sucess!


Leaving camp at Brainerd Lake @ 5.40, Sebastien and I ditched our seeming ton of climbing gear when we got worried that we'd run out of time on the Ryan/Mendenhall route. Instead we did the bad-ass E-face route (class 3), summiting at 12.36. Leaving the summit @ 14.00, by the time we got back to camp, got our belongings packed up, left from there, and made it back to the trailhead, it was already 22.50. Long day... Check out my trip report.

Posted Mar 18, 2003 8:43 pm

ScottySRoute Climbed: NE Face Date Climbed: Sept 7, 2002  Sucess!


Climbed w/bearbnz as part of our 2002 14'er tour. Fun 3rd class, but the approach seemed to drag on and on...

See photos from this hike and more at my homepage: http://www.unr.edu/homepage/strachan

Posted Jan 22, 2003 6:18 pm

Dave KRoute Climbed: Northeast Face Date Climbed: October 2001  Sucess!
Fun Class 3 climb up the chute. Beautiful setting.
Posted Jan 22, 2003 5:54 pm

rmjwintersRoute Climbed: Northeast Face Date Climbed: July 2 2001  Sucess!


Long dayhike from Glacier Lodge with plenty of boulder hopping. Ascended one of the coulairs and negotiated the final ridge traverse. Beautiful summit.
Posted Oct 6, 2002 1:58 pm

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