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Middle Teton Climber's Log

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sskeepRoute Climbed: Middle Teton Date Climbed: August 20, 2003  Sucess!


Stayed at the Platforms. Not as high on the mountain as others but a nice place to stay. Usual crew, Scott, Steve Pat and me. Great day, great mountain, great friends. Nuff said.
Posted Aug 24, 2004 10:47 pm

Scott PierceRoute Climbed: South West Couloir Date Climbed: August, 1982, August, 1983  Sucess!

Scott Pierce

I used to be a camp counselor at a Boy Scout Camp on the west side of the Tetons. Each year, at the end of the season, we counselors would hike the Middle Teton. We'd leave our musty tents in Teton Canyon in the middle of the night, cram into a junker van and a couple of station wagons, and depart Lupine Meadows well before dawn. We knew we had to be on the summit and down before the afternoon thunderheads rolled in from the Idaho desert.

No ropes, no helmets, no ice axes. Just hiking boots, shorts, a water bottle and a cheese sandwich, and the fitness that came from the preceding weeks of hiking, backpacking, swimming and running. The snow was always just right to kick steps in on the way up, and soft enough to safely glissade while going down.

I remember downclimbing from the summit on easy 3d class past a couple of guys, all decked out in brand new, bright blue matching shells and pants, with "The North Face" plastered across their chests. They were rappelling, and their faces bore the serious look of hard men doing man's work in a dangerous, manly environment. Their expressions changed to one best described as "mightily annoyed" as the Boy Scouts tripped past, intent on getting down to the thousands of feet of fabulously fun boot-and-butt sliding on the early afternoon snow, on a late summer day in the Tetons.

Posted Jun 29, 2004 8:41 pm

BootboyRoute Climbed: SW couloir Date Climbed: July 2003  Sucess!


Did the Middle and the South in one day in about 11 hours. Good weather and tons of snow. From the meadows we used our axes about 2/3rds of the way up. All the snow made for a fast descent
Posted May 29, 2004 2:45 am

bteddyRoute Climbed: SW couloir Date Climbed: july '03  Sucess!
Climbed in conjunction with S. Teton in about 12 hours total
Posted Apr 19, 2004 11:53 pm

TDRobertsRoute Climbed: SW Couloir Date Climbed: Sep 04 '03  Sucess!


Fun climb - except for the weather. Forecast called for mostly sunny skies with chance of late afternoon thunderstorms (sound familiar?). Awoke at camp in Meadows with very overcast skies. Climbed with on-again, off-again showers, wind, and a little sleet. Didn't spend much time on summit as weather continued to deteriorate and it was appearent the afternoon thunder would soon begin.
Posted Oct 20, 2003 9:30 am

HendereRoute Climbed: SW Couloir Date Climbed: September 4, 2003  Sucess!


Had a great time climbing with Alan Ellis and Iceaxeman. Perfect weather and rock. Only downside was a few REAL MOUNTAINEERS (I know they were real because they told me) sending rocks down the couloir towards us.
Posted Sep 8, 2003 6:16 pm

Jerry LRoute Climbed: Southwest Couloir Date Climbed: September 4, 2003  Sucess!

Jerry L

Posted Sep 8, 2003 4:35 pm

Alan EllisRoute Climbed: Southwest Couloir Date Climbed: September 4, 2003  Sucess!

Alan Ellis

This climb is an absolute joy! After a long approach, the couloir itself is wonderful. With mostly 3rd class scrambling, and a few class 4 moves, it's a blast.

The best part of my day was the birthday party on the summit. Jerry (Iceaxeman) turned 50 on our summit day. Eric (hendere) burned a match in a Clif Bar for a cake and gave him an old 'biner for a gift. We all sang "Happy Birthday" and enjoyed the summit with perfect weather and no wind. Thanks to Eric and Jerry for making this one of the highlights of my trip.

Posted Sep 6, 2003 10:12 am

b.Route Climbed: Southwest Couloir Date Climbed: June 1996  Sucess!


The first time I camped on the snow, the first time I used an ice axe, my first Teton summit, my first yearning for the Exum Ridge once I saw it from the summit of the Middle Teton.
Posted Sep 3, 2003 1:07 pm

miztflipRoute Climbed: Chounard Ridge Date Climbed: August 9, 2003  Sucess!


What a great route. Simulclimbed this route with my wife and found it to be much better than the Upper Exum on the Grand. More sustained for the 5.4 grade, longer and best of all not a single person on the route or summit. One of the Exum guides I met along the trail said this route sees almost no traffic and he was right. There were no traces of other climbers having passed which means lots of route finding and although the rock was lichened it was still beautiful solid Teton granite.
Posted Aug 12, 2003 7:20 pm

Tom FralichRoute Climbed: SW Couloir Date Climbed: July 31, 2003  Sucess!

Tom Fralich

Climbed solo to the summit in about 5.5 hrs from Lupine Meadows Trailhead and then went to the summit of South Teton as well before heading back down. The route was really fun with nice scrambling in the upper sections. It isn't even that exposed, since the route stays in a very deep gully most of the way. Routefinding was quite straightforward since there was a clear path from so many other climbers. Quite a long approach over lots of talus but well worth the effort.
Posted Aug 8, 2003 5:07 pm

climbitRoute Climbed: Southwest Couloir Date Climbed: 2003 July 16  Sucess!


A beautiful mountain with great position in a wonderful range. It's too bad the climbing isn't all like the upper portion of the couloir (steeper and more solid). We kicked steps up the snow in the couloir to 11,800ft before exiting on rock but took the "trail" down avoiding the snow. Nice day. Four-and-a-half hours round-trip from South Garnet Camp Zone with daypacks.
Posted Jul 21, 2003 4:43 pm

gatoRoute Climbed: Southwest Couloir Date Climbed: October 2002  Sucess!


Solo climb, beautiful day. Only one other person in Garnet Canyon that day!
Posted Jul 16, 2003 1:19 pm

bighurtbobRoute Climbed: NW Ice Couloir Date Climbed: August 1998  Sucess!


Cool route. Crappy descent.
Posted Feb 7, 2003 1:27 pm

Martin CashRoute Climbed: Southwest Coulior Date Climbed: 10/10/2002

Martin Cash

Attemped to solo dayhike this route from the Lupine Meadows parking lot. Got to the saddle at about 1:00 PM and scrambled up to about 11,400 feet. The winds picked up to about 50 mph and a front was moving in so I turned around. Good thing, this storm brought lots of snow to the Tetons and Yellowstone that night and the next day. The route was pretty easy, mostly scrambling. When I get better at alpine rock, I'll be back to tackle a harder route.
Posted Nov 26, 2002 10:45 am

OregonNativeRoute Climbed: Dike Date Climbed: Summer 2002  Sucess!
Did the climb with J.Z. We didn't read the guidebook and made the mistake of rapping towards the saddle. Became disinterested in looking for rappel slings in the dark so sat down for the night with only a light windbreaker over tights and a tank-top. I thought about how Johnny Cash used to sing "I know I've fought tougher men, I just can't remember when." Some nice people at the saddle gave us some tea when we passed through the next morning.
Posted Nov 14, 2002 6:50 pm

rmjwintersRoute Climbed: Southwest chute Date Climbed: August 22 1998  Sucess!


Summited and then off to South Teton. See trip report for details.
Posted Oct 5, 2002 9:42 pm

kletterwebbiRoute Climbed: Regular Date Climbed: August 1996  Sucess!


We climbed the Middle Teton to prepare for the Grand Teton. At the first day we go up to the meadows, there we spend the night.

Very early at the next morning we started, going up the regular route. We reached the summit all allone and enjoyed the beautiful trip. Great view to the Grand Teton from the summit of the Middle Teton.
Posted Jun 4, 2002 10:28 pm

darinchadwickRoute Climbed: SW coulior Date Climbed: July 1990  Sucess!


This was only the second or third real mountain I'd ever climbed. I was woefully unprepared with junky lightweight hiking boots and an old borrowed ice axe. When we got to the saddle, and could see the praries of Idaho, we saw small thunderheads forming. Foolishly we continued on to the summit. Even more foolishly, we decided to glissade down a different coulior 'to save time'. Of course this coulior ended in super steep terrain, so we had to reclimb back to the summit, and descend the normal route.

By this point the thunderstorm was picking up speed, and struck just as we reached the Middle-South Teton Saddle. We were buzzed by our ice axes a couple times as the lightning struck nearby. We huddled under large boulders above the Garnet Canyon meadows, waiting for the storm to subside. After the lightning passed, we took off running in the downpour, down the endless switchbacks to the car.

In the last 12 years since that climb I've discovered that if one can just survive the stupidity of one's first few climbs, the rest will be OK.
Posted May 18, 2002 3:37 am

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