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Milky Way, 5.10c

 
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Milky Way, 5.10c
6th Pitch- 45m- 5.10a/ I have led this pitch twice (Forbidden Way) and it did not seem to get any easier the second time. Step up and right on somewhat precarious rock to clip a bolt (both I and my second tore separate hand holds off here). Continue straight up to clip a slung (extended-2010) bolt. If this bolt is no longer slung, keep in mind it would be best to fix some cordelette to the bolt as your traverse needs to be made much lower. Start the rightward traverse (10m) by stepping down a move or two to find a small toe rail. Continue on the exposed, blind, run-out and steep traverse until you reach easier ground in which to ascend to a small ledge with a third bolt. You can place a yellow C3 along the way, but that was not a placement I would trust to hold a fall. From that third bolt, continue on a rightward angle through some chossy rock clipping another bolt in a shallow corner. Then use positive edge climbing on much better rock to move up and right to a much more significant corner. Place gear here and make a move at the grade out and right to the bolted semi hanging belay (3 bolts at the belay).
Milky Way, 5.10c, 7 Pitches, Kahl Wall, Yamnuska, Canmore, Alberta, August, 2010

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 Milky Way, 5.10c, 7 Pitches (Route)


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Dow WilliamsSubmitted by Dow Williams
on Nov 1, 2010 6:55 am

Image ID: 675996
Hits: 379 
Object Title: Milky Way, 5.10c

Image Type(s): Rock Climbing