Missy’s Playhouse - 40’- 5.8/ If you follow the existing trail straight up from the correct parking area, this is one of the first routes you see. An obvious chimney formed by two blocks to your right. If you like stemming, this route seems easier than 5.8 (my thoughts), if you don’t like stemming and have tight runner’s hips, etc., then it will seem tougher (my wife’s thoughts). Anyway, fun route, stem and clip, stem and clip until you lose the right block, then grab a bomber ledge above and make an interesting mantle move onto the face below the chains. Four bolts to anchor. A bolt has been removed from the original anchor and the replacement set far back. Use a long runner equalized with a figure 8 to get your rope off the edge for top rope purposes.
West Cedar Crags, Sprocket Rocks, May, 2007
