ApproachSame approach as for the Pioneer Route
Route DescriptionThis is an excellent 3 pitch route that ascends the Monkey Face. I believe it is the easiest free route to the top. Monkey Space circumnavigates the tower in an upward spiral starting on the east face, moving across the south face, and finally finishing on the northwest side of the tower.
Pitch One: Same first pitch to the Pioneer Route. Start on the east face and climb an easy crack up to the notch, between the tower and the adjacent cliff, that separates the east face from the south face. Continue climbing above notch on the easy face to a set of bolted anchors sitting atop a small ledge (5.5).
Pitch Two: From ledge, work up and left on the bolted face to the cave forming the backside of the Monkey's neck (5 or 6 bolts, 5.11a). Belay in the cave.
Between Pitch 2 and 3, transfer the belay to the other side of the cave (North Side).
Pitch Three: Campus up the short overhanging wall past three bolts to easier ground passing one more bolt to the summit (5.11b). Belay on top.
Some say pitch 2 is the crux. Some say pitch 3.
Descent: Short rappel from the summit to a set of bolts placed on a large boulder that separates the monkey's eys (~30 ft) . Rappel to the big ledge on the East face where the route was started (~100 ft)
Essential GearAbout 10 quickdraws
One 60 meter rope or two 50's
1 or 2 optional cams: finger to thin hand (#.75 or #1 camalot I think)
Can anyone confirm?