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Monkey Space
Route

Monkey Space

 
Monkey Space

Page Type: Route

Location: Oregon, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 44.36780°N / 121.1455°W

Object Title: Monkey Space

Route Type: Technical Rock Climb

Time Required: Less than two hours

Difficulty: 5.11b

Route Quality: 
 - 1 Votes
 

 

Page By: colbyjw

Created/Edited: Mar 21, 2005 / Sep 15, 2006

Object ID: 164404

Hits: 5497 

Page Score: 71.06%  - 1 Votes 

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Approach

Same approach as for the Pioneer Route

Route Description

This is an excellent 3 pitch route that ascends the Monkey Face. I believe it is the easiest free route to the top. Monkey Space circumnavigates the tower in an upward spiral starting on the east face, moving across the south face, and finally finishing on the northwest side of the tower.

Pitch One: Same first pitch to the Pioneer Route. Start on the east face and climb an easy crack up to the notch, between the tower and the adjacent cliff, that separates the east face from the south face. Continue climbing above notch on the easy face to a set of bolted anchors sitting atop a small ledge (5.5).

Pitch Two: From ledge, work up and left on the bolted face to the cave forming the backside of the Monkey's neck (5 or 6 bolts, 5.11a). Belay in the cave.

Between Pitch 2 and 3, transfer the belay to the other side of the cave (North Side).

Pitch Three: Campus up the short overhanging wall past three bolts to easier ground passing one more bolt to the summit (5.11b). Belay on top.

Some say pitch 2 is the crux. Some say pitch 3.

Descent: Short rappel from the summit to a set of bolts placed on a large boulder that separates the monkey's eys (~30 ft) . Rappel to the big ledge on the East face where the route was started (~100 ft)

Essential Gear

About 10 quickdraws
One 60 meter rope or two 50's
1 or 2 optional cams: finger to thin hand (#.75 or #1 camalot I think)

Can anyone confirm?

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Images

Monkey SpaceMe leading the second pitch....Here I\'m following the first...Me leading the second pitch....Me leading the second pitch....coming up pitch 2